We were able to secure a private car to take us to Mopti it was a little more expensive than taking the bus but would get us there in an hour opposed to three. When we thought about what our time was worth we decided to pay up. We got to Mopti where our driver made sure we were going to get on the next bashe to Djenne. This was going to leave at 11 and was about a 2 hour ride. No matter how many times we’ve been told times and distances and length of rides and they have been nowhere close to what we were told we actually believed we were leaving at 11. Not to our surprise but to our dismay we finally got on the bus and out of the parking lot by 1. The ride was crowded and hot and squished and fairly unpleasant but we made it in less than 2 hours. Just before actually entering Djenne there is a river that we needed to cross to get there. So with a jolt and a bang the bus drove onto this barge like boat and across we went. We had a little trouble when we arrived on the other side as there were some men (not in uniforms) that were trying to make us pay a “tax”. No one else...just us white folk. We told them we weren’t going to pay and we didn’t understand what they were saying and finally in all their frustration they let us go through. We were dropped off in front of the big market where we met up with our next guide that would show us around Djenne, take us to the Mosque (the largest, oldest mud structure in the world) and help us around the market. We went to the hotel and then headed to do some shopping. I have already spent more money in these 3 days than I have the entire 7 months that I have been here. But I have been waiting to travel and shop since I got here. This is probably going to be my one and only big trip and shopping spree. Let me at ‘em!!
Djenne is a sad turn of landscape compared to where we just came from. It is muddy and filthy and strewn with litter. It smells just awful. Rotten food and sewage seems to be the main culprit. It is one of the dirtiest places I’ve seen so far. After shopping it was already getting dark so we headed to the restaurant and then to the hotel to get a good nights sleep. Tomorrow is seli (the end of Ramadan). We are going to tour the mosque and participate in morning prayers and then we are going to head into a fulani village (by horse cart because the roads are mostly washed out to other transports) just to see how they live and celebrate.
The Great Mosque of Djenné is the largest mud brick or adobe building in the world and is considered by many architects to be the greatest achievement of the Sudano-Sahelian architectural style. Although the original mosque on this site was build in the 13th century this particular updated version was built in 1907. It is one of the most famous landmarks in Africa.
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| The Great Mosque of Djenne. |
The horse ride was great. It was only 5k but seemed alot further being tossed around in the back on the cart like a rag doll. The fulani village was clean and spread out enough to be comfortable. The people were different looking in that they circle their mouths with henna and some of the children had interesting haircuts (shaved with a circle of hair on top). There is also some jewelry and ornate earrings that are worn specifically by the fulani. The more we walked around the more we realized that these people did not want us here. There is one woman that you can take pictures of (she gets paid) that was really upset by our presence. I totally understand. They feel like they are being exploited...I felt like I was exploiting them. It was an awful feeling. But they do it regardless of their feelings because the money that we paid to get there is given to the village for the schools. They don’t really have a choice I guess. But it wasn’t the highlight of my time in the north for sure. I left feeling depressed and sad for them...even though they are making money from our visit. I would have rather just given it to them and stayed at the hotel. In the morning we are leaving for Mopti then Segou.
August 31, 2011
We have arrived in Segou. Segou is considered one of the bigger towns in Mali. Bigger than Bougouni, smaller than Bamako. It has a lot to offer in a small space. There are restaurants (I’m totally having pizza for lunch) and coffee shops, a market and a lot of artisan shopping. Again, I can’t wait to shop. We’ll head out tomorrow after breakfast.
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