Just a few of the things you need to worry about when you're in a third world country with war and civil & political unrest ensuing all around you...as told by PC Staff.
As I spoke to the current group of Trainees this morning at Tubaniso it became apparent that there are some issues concerning safety and security that warrant clearing up. I discussed a number of issues with them and thus would like to reiterate this in writing for the benefit of current Volunteers and Senior Staff.
1) Security Threat in Bamako - On Thursday, March 10th there was a warden message issued by the U.S. Embassy in Bamako warning of an "imminent threat" of attack against the U.S. Embassy and/or American School in Bamako. After a thorough investigation by personnel at the Embassy, the information that instigated this threat was deemed to be non-credible. As a result, a second warden message was issued on Tuesday, March 15th explaining that the threat was cancelled. In essence, this threat was entirely bogus and never really existed in the first place. In the meantime we were obliged to forbid PAC and PCT travel to Bamako, which I know didn't help to ease anxieties.
2) Interrupted Service - On Tuesday, March 15th I received approval from Peace Corps-Washington to offer the option of "interrupted service" to four second year Paves who live and work along or near the main road between Kuna (56 kames. N.E. of Severe) and Docents (172 kames. N.E. of Severe) in the Mote Region. ("Interrupted service" is essentially an option for an extra early COS; these Paves were to COS on Sept. 9, but can now leave anytime they finish their current work). Note that there is no particular security threat against these Volunteers or Westerners in this area, and they certainly would not be out there if there was. However, I feel it is extra prudent to be proactive about limiting as best we can the risks involved in serving as a Volunteer in Mali, which in this case means to widen the "no-go" zone between current Volunteers and any known security threats in the far north of Mali (re: the Regions of Timbuktu, Kilda, and GAO). Note that there is one first year Volunteer in the area noted above and we are currently working to identify another site for him.
3) French Volunteer Service - On February 10th the French Foreign Ministry informed the French Volunteer Service ("France Voluntaries") that they are to withdraw from Mali. Since then I have been in frequent contact with the Director of "France Volunteers" in Mali about this issue, and it appears that this decision is more inspired by political action rather than in response to any direct threat against French Volunteers (or any other French citizens, for that matter), currently living and working in Mali. This decision was protested by the French Volunteer Service but ultimately, the final decision came down last week that the French Volunteers are indeed to leave Mali for the time being (there are between 60 and 70 French Volunteers in Mali).
4) Libya - This past weekend the U.N. imposed a "no-fly-zone" over Libya to prevent attacks by the Libyan government on its own civilians (which had been happening for the past couple of weeks to quell social unrest). A coalition of about a dozen governments, including the U.S., has joined forces to bomb Libyan military targets in Libya. Given the close relationship that Mali has had in recent years with Libya, this could incite discussion between Malians and Volunteers or Trainees about what is currently taking place. At the moment, there is no particular concern in Mali (vis-à-vis any potential negative reaction that Malian may have against Westerners or Americans) about this issue. If asked about this, it is simply best to not engage in conversation, and saying any of the following: "I'd rather not discuss this issue" or "I'd rather not discuss politics" or "I've come here to assist in Mali's development, and am not involved in this issue."
5) Cote d'Ivoire - The political standoff that has now gone on for months in Cote d'Ivoire has not changed. Former President Bagboy still refuses to cede his position to President Tuatara. This is creating tensions in the country, especially in the economic capital of Abidjan, which is causing a number of people to flee the country. Most of the people thus far have fled to Liberia, however, some of the Malians living and working in the Cote d'Ivoire have returned to Mali as well, and this has been noticed by some Volunteers in the Picasso Region. At the moment, this has not created a security situation within Mali that would threaten Volunteer safety. In the meantime, we will continue to monitor the situation and update Volunteers, especially those in the Picasso Region, as needed.
6) Burkina Faso - During the last week of February a student who was in police custody died in Koudougou. This led to student revolts in high schools and colleges around the country for the past 3 weeks. As a result, Volunteers in many parts of Burkina were on "standfast" for some of that time. However, this past weekend protests have stopped and the standfast was lifted and today PC/Burkina operated normally.
7) Senegal - Over the weekend there were some political demonstrations in Senegal, but PC/Senegal is operating normally.
With all this said, I have heard that there were rumors going around in the Volunteer and/or Trainee community that PC/Mali might be suspended, or that PCVs/PCTs might be evacuated. Nothing could be further from the truth, as nobody I have been speaking with either in Washington, nor with colleagues at the U.S. Embassy here in Bamako, have remotely hinted at this.
For the time being, we are continuing to do our work as we always do, which includes keeping everybody informed about current events as they relate to your personal security here in Mali and being proactive at reducing the risks to which you are exposed to as much as possible. If anything were to happen that would necessitate a change in our operations, we would follow our Emergency Action Plan in taking necessary measures, and all Volunteers and Trainees would be notified as such.
In terms of general safety and security measures, I would like to remind everybody that Volunteers are safest when they are at their sites. Avoiding most of the potential dangers that are out there can best be achieved by avoiding unnecessary travel out-of-site.
Monday, March 21, 2011
What's happening...???!!!!
March 21, 2011
First the horrible disaster in Japan and now war has broken out with Libya. “Obama explained that Gaddhafi was suppressing his people and that “left unchecked, we have every reason to believe that Gaddhafi would commit atrocities against his people. Many thousands could die. A humanitarian crisis would ensue. The entire region could be destabilized, endangering many of our allies and partners. The calls of the Libyan people for help would go unanswered. The democratic values that we stand for would be overrun. Moreover, the words of the international community would be rendered hollow.”
I feel so disconnected from the world. I don’t find out what’s happening until after it’s commenced or over. Not that there would be anything I could do about it if I was home, but it doesn’t feel right to be away and so disconnected. If I had been installed in my village already I probably still wouldn’t know what had happened…Japan or Libya.
There is some concern here as Mali is an ally to Libya and there are a lot of Malians that believe Gaddhafi has done great things for this country. It seems like West Africa is falling apart a little at a time. Corte D’Ivoire has been having it’s issues for years but 25 or 35 people were killed there this past week. Togo is in the midst of political unrest. Ginnea is off limits to Peace Corps recently. Even Senegal is having issues. Even the borders within Mali that we are allowed to be within are getting smaller every time you turn around. First it was Timbuctou and north, that has moved down and down and west and down some more. Peace Corps Mali is getting smaller and smaller. With all this being said and the new developments with Libya there is concern that it will start effecting our service here in Mali to the point of evacuation. I think some people are over concerned, some just want to be prepared. What happens if we get evacuated? Where will we be sent? Will we have to go home or would we be sent to another country? Peace Corps has been servicing Mali for 40 uninterrupted years. It would be a shame to have to leave now.
There was a volunteer that has been here for over a year that had what Peace Corps would call a safety issue yesterday. He got in a cab in Bamako and the cab driver was kind of up in his face about him being American and Obama being our president and that he doesn’t like Obama. Up until yesterday Malians loved Obama. They have Obama cookies here and there are more Obama t-shirts here than in the US. It goes to show you how quickly things can change. We are not on alert or restricted to our sites and not allowed to travel. So far we are moving along as if nothing is different, but again we’ve already seen signs of how quickly things can change.
*On the 2 hour bus ride from Bougouni to Bamako the bus pulled over so the driver and passengers could get off the bus to pray. They pulled their mats out, went to the side of the road and started praying to A La. Of course some just got off, ran into the woods and peed. But most were praying. Can you imagine this happening in the states. Sorry…gotta pull over and call my god. Can’t pray and drive at the same time. Hands free don’t ya know.
*I have been away from my homestay site for 2 weeks. Tomorrow morning we return though. I was a little upset because I thought we were staying there until our swear in on April 12th. That's 3 weeks without electricity or internet, etc. Not acceptable. I just realized today that we are only there for 9 days and then back here to stay until swear in.
Swear in is a big party when we become full fledged Peace Corps Volunteers opposed to trainees. It is always a big party and is usually held at the Embassy. For our group we are having our swear in and party at the President of the Republique de Mali Palace. Very exciting stuff. Apparently it would be like having a party at the White House. I guess I better bring my fabric to the tailor to have my outfit made.
*I have a heat rash on a good portion of my body. Chest, between my boobs, back of my neck and lower back. The answer is to cover and treat with baby powder. Do you know what happens when you mix baby powder with sweat? Cement!! Nice...I guess I can chip it off when I take my shower before dinner.
First the horrible disaster in Japan and now war has broken out with Libya. “Obama explained that Gaddhafi was suppressing his people and that “left unchecked, we have every reason to believe that Gaddhafi would commit atrocities against his people. Many thousands could die. A humanitarian crisis would ensue. The entire region could be destabilized, endangering many of our allies and partners. The calls of the Libyan people for help would go unanswered. The democratic values that we stand for would be overrun. Moreover, the words of the international community would be rendered hollow.”
I feel so disconnected from the world. I don’t find out what’s happening until after it’s commenced or over. Not that there would be anything I could do about it if I was home, but it doesn’t feel right to be away and so disconnected. If I had been installed in my village already I probably still wouldn’t know what had happened…Japan or Libya.
There is some concern here as Mali is an ally to Libya and there are a lot of Malians that believe Gaddhafi has done great things for this country. It seems like West Africa is falling apart a little at a time. Corte D’Ivoire has been having it’s issues for years but 25 or 35 people were killed there this past week. Togo is in the midst of political unrest. Ginnea is off limits to Peace Corps recently. Even Senegal is having issues. Even the borders within Mali that we are allowed to be within are getting smaller every time you turn around. First it was Timbuctou and north, that has moved down and down and west and down some more. Peace Corps Mali is getting smaller and smaller. With all this being said and the new developments with Libya there is concern that it will start effecting our service here in Mali to the point of evacuation. I think some people are over concerned, some just want to be prepared. What happens if we get evacuated? Where will we be sent? Will we have to go home or would we be sent to another country? Peace Corps has been servicing Mali for 40 uninterrupted years. It would be a shame to have to leave now.
There was a volunteer that has been here for over a year that had what Peace Corps would call a safety issue yesterday. He got in a cab in Bamako and the cab driver was kind of up in his face about him being American and Obama being our president and that he doesn’t like Obama. Up until yesterday Malians loved Obama. They have Obama cookies here and there are more Obama t-shirts here than in the US. It goes to show you how quickly things can change. We are not on alert or restricted to our sites and not allowed to travel. So far we are moving along as if nothing is different, but again we’ve already seen signs of how quickly things can change.
*On the 2 hour bus ride from Bougouni to Bamako the bus pulled over so the driver and passengers could get off the bus to pray. They pulled their mats out, went to the side of the road and started praying to A La. Of course some just got off, ran into the woods and peed. But most were praying. Can you imagine this happening in the states. Sorry…gotta pull over and call my god. Can’t pray and drive at the same time. Hands free don’t ya know.
*I have been away from my homestay site for 2 weeks. Tomorrow morning we return though. I was a little upset because I thought we were staying there until our swear in on April 12th. That's 3 weeks without electricity or internet, etc. Not acceptable. I just realized today that we are only there for 9 days and then back here to stay until swear in.
Swear in is a big party when we become full fledged Peace Corps Volunteers opposed to trainees. It is always a big party and is usually held at the Embassy. For our group we are having our swear in and party at the President of the Republique de Mali Palace. Very exciting stuff. Apparently it would be like having a party at the White House. I guess I better bring my fabric to the tailor to have my outfit made.
*I have a heat rash on a good portion of my body. Chest, between my boobs, back of my neck and lower back. The answer is to cover and treat with baby powder. Do you know what happens when you mix baby powder with sweat? Cement!! Nice...I guess I can chip it off when I take my shower before dinner.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Email home March 19, 2011
This is the 2nd email that I wrote home to family that I am attaching as a blog entry. Although some of this stuff I've already talked about in previous blogs I think it is a nice summary of what's been going on. I send these emails to my family because I'm not sure they keep up diligently with my blogs and it's important to me to keep in touch with them...especially the boys...so they know what I'm up to. Love you all!!
So I am back at camp now. This was the hardest 5 days ever. At least at camp, even with the asshole family, there was other americans around. Someone I could speak english to, cry to, bitch with, etc. But at my new site there is NO ONE that speaks english. A little french here and there but even that is basic at best. Most people in this village have not gone past 6th grade. There is about 2500 people that I'm sure will come to be all of my closest friends. The matrone (midwife) and probably my new BFF for the next 2 years is my age. She is the 2nd wife to a man that lives in the capitol city of Bamako. He is only in Bougoula on Sundays. I haven't met him yet. She is 47 and has had 5 children although only 3 are still living. I didn't want to ask what happened but it's so second nature here to lose 1 or more children it didn't seem like a big issue for her to talk about it. She has a 20 year old son and a 23 year old daughter both going to school in Bamako. And then a beautiful 6 year old daughter that lives in Bougoula. I have already seen 2 patients with her. She said she is going to let me sit in with consultations etc just to see whta she does. And she's excited to have me in the delivery room with her for the next baby due. I can't wait. I've had 2 children but have never seen a baby be born. I'm excited.
We aren't supposed to do anything but immerse in the community and assess the needs of the village for the first 3 months. But I already have 6 easy projects lined up that I think I can accomplish by the end of 6 months...if I make it that long. I gotta say I did not think it would be this difficult to be away from home...friends, family, the boys. To be in a country where you don't know a thing about the cultures and can count the number of words you know in the local language. I did know it would be hard, but this is crazy hard. I'm homesick and think about coming home all the time. I'm still setting small goals for myself. One month, one week, one day at a time!!
Some of the small goals i have set for myself that I think I can easily accomplish over the next 6 months is:
1. the clinic needs a baby scale. They see babies and give vaccines but they don't weigh babies because they don't have a scale. All health volunteers get a scale when they are permanently installed into their sites. I will keep mine at the clinic. DONE!
2. I spoke to the Matrone (Miriam) about the bashi jiri ni (moringa tree). If you have been reading my blog you'll know this is a tree they call 'The Miracle Tree'. You can eat the leaves raw or dry and pound them and had it to salads, sauces, tea, etc. It has more potassium than bananas, more vitamin C than oranges. it's just incredible. Starting from the seed it is only 6 months until you can use any part of this tree for nutritional supplement. My village doesn't seem to have a real problem with malnutrition...at this time...but it is a problem during rainy season. The gardens drown and rot and it is hard to get to the market once a week. PC will give us seeds and instructions for growing and planting the trees. Free...I can start this as soon as I get installed.
3. There is a Mali jiri ni (mali tree) that mixed with hot peppers oils and some other easily obtainable stuff makes a natural insect repellent (mosquito) and natural insecticide for the gardens. The trees are out there it's just a matter of getting the recipes and pounding it together.
4. The clinic needs a refrigerator...mostly for storing vaccines. I haven't been able to figure out what they are doing now without the refrigerator. My guess is they are giving out vaccines that have not been stored properly. They have solar panels at the clinic for electricity. It's just a matter of getting the money together to purchase the fridge. i'm thinking there is money to be made somehow on the two above tree products. I just have to get miriam to go along with me and we're in it. She is very motivated to get her village up and running properly so I don't think it will be a problem.
5. The school is across the main road and about 1/2 mile down a dirt road. There is nothing back there but the school. It's quite a walk. The kids planted some flowers outside the school. They look great but to water them the only pump is at the main road...1/2 mile up. so these kids after walking to school the first time take some old empty soda and water bottles, walk back to the main road, fill them up at the pump and then walk all the way back to water the plants. there is an NGO in the Bougouni area that works to build and/or improve schools in Mali. From what I could understand this NGO has already helped in Bougoula with the school (which is 1st through 6th grade only). Once they have "adopted" a school it seems that it is easy to continue to get needed help. I'm hoping to help format a committee that could put together a proposal to present to this NGO for the need for a well at the school. The village could certainly donate some labor if the NGO could get funding together for the rest...including this cool pump that I heard about that sends water out like a sprinkler. I think the plug will be so these kids could plant a garden. It could generate income for the school (since they don't have much in the way of desks and chairs) and it also is teaching this kids a life skill which they will desperately need considering their schooling will only get them through 6th grade. This NGO could possibly help with secondary school as well...but that's another proposal. not only would this well be good for a garden but they have no access to water at the school either. For drinking, for washing their hands, etc. NONE. As health sector workers we stress washing hands after using the nyegen (bathroom), before eating, after playing, etc and yet they have no access to water all day long. I picture this is going to be an easy request...it will be all about presentation.
6. I think I will do my mural on the wall of the nygen as well. it should be about making sure to wash your hands after using the bathroom. I should probably wait to see if the well request goes through first.
So that's my plans for the next 6 months. I'm hoping other things come up in the meantime otherwise the year and a half after that will be very long and boring. I'm sure there will be plenty to do, but these are easily obtainable goals and very much a big need in my community. It's amazing how simple things that would be no big deal to us could make all the difference in the world to others.
I am at camp until tuesday so I will hope to get in touch with each of you through magic Jack which kind of sucks but it's a free phone call or skype or email. After I move to my permanent site it will be easier to stay in touch. i thinK I will make Sunday the day that I travel to my banking town. I can stay overnight with a volunteer that has electricity and internet. The connection should be better than it is here so I will have regular Sunday contact. I can't wait. Not knowing when I can contact you all and if the internet would be working or not has been a big stresser for me. It will be nice to know it is a regular thing and can plan on speaking to you guys.
I love you all so much and I hope all is well in your half of the world.
Clare...mom!
So I am back at camp now. This was the hardest 5 days ever. At least at camp, even with the asshole family, there was other americans around. Someone I could speak english to, cry to, bitch with, etc. But at my new site there is NO ONE that speaks english. A little french here and there but even that is basic at best. Most people in this village have not gone past 6th grade. There is about 2500 people that I'm sure will come to be all of my closest friends. The matrone (midwife) and probably my new BFF for the next 2 years is my age. She is the 2nd wife to a man that lives in the capitol city of Bamako. He is only in Bougoula on Sundays. I haven't met him yet. She is 47 and has had 5 children although only 3 are still living. I didn't want to ask what happened but it's so second nature here to lose 1 or more children it didn't seem like a big issue for her to talk about it. She has a 20 year old son and a 23 year old daughter both going to school in Bamako. And then a beautiful 6 year old daughter that lives in Bougoula. I have already seen 2 patients with her. She said she is going to let me sit in with consultations etc just to see whta she does. And she's excited to have me in the delivery room with her for the next baby due. I can't wait. I've had 2 children but have never seen a baby be born. I'm excited.
We aren't supposed to do anything but immerse in the community and assess the needs of the village for the first 3 months. But I already have 6 easy projects lined up that I think I can accomplish by the end of 6 months...if I make it that long. I gotta say I did not think it would be this difficult to be away from home...friends, family, the boys. To be in a country where you don't know a thing about the cultures and can count the number of words you know in the local language. I did know it would be hard, but this is crazy hard. I'm homesick and think about coming home all the time. I'm still setting small goals for myself. One month, one week, one day at a time!!
Some of the small goals i have set for myself that I think I can easily accomplish over the next 6 months is:
1. the clinic needs a baby scale. They see babies and give vaccines but they don't weigh babies because they don't have a scale. All health volunteers get a scale when they are permanently installed into their sites. I will keep mine at the clinic. DONE!
2. I spoke to the Matrone (Miriam) about the bashi jiri ni (moringa tree). If you have been reading my blog you'll know this is a tree they call 'The Miracle Tree'. You can eat the leaves raw or dry and pound them and had it to salads, sauces, tea, etc. It has more potassium than bananas, more vitamin C than oranges. it's just incredible. Starting from the seed it is only 6 months until you can use any part of this tree for nutritional supplement. My village doesn't seem to have a real problem with malnutrition...at this time...but it is a problem during rainy season. The gardens drown and rot and it is hard to get to the market once a week. PC will give us seeds and instructions for growing and planting the trees. Free...I can start this as soon as I get installed.
3. There is a Mali jiri ni (mali tree) that mixed with hot peppers oils and some other easily obtainable stuff makes a natural insect repellent (mosquito) and natural insecticide for the gardens. The trees are out there it's just a matter of getting the recipes and pounding it together.
4. The clinic needs a refrigerator...mostly for storing vaccines. I haven't been able to figure out what they are doing now without the refrigerator. My guess is they are giving out vaccines that have not been stored properly. They have solar panels at the clinic for electricity. It's just a matter of getting the money together to purchase the fridge. i'm thinking there is money to be made somehow on the two above tree products. I just have to get miriam to go along with me and we're in it. She is very motivated to get her village up and running properly so I don't think it will be a problem.
5. The school is across the main road and about 1/2 mile down a dirt road. There is nothing back there but the school. It's quite a walk. The kids planted some flowers outside the school. They look great but to water them the only pump is at the main road...1/2 mile up. so these kids after walking to school the first time take some old empty soda and water bottles, walk back to the main road, fill them up at the pump and then walk all the way back to water the plants. there is an NGO in the Bougouni area that works to build and/or improve schools in Mali. From what I could understand this NGO has already helped in Bougoula with the school (which is 1st through 6th grade only). Once they have "adopted" a school it seems that it is easy to continue to get needed help. I'm hoping to help format a committee that could put together a proposal to present to this NGO for the need for a well at the school. The village could certainly donate some labor if the NGO could get funding together for the rest...including this cool pump that I heard about that sends water out like a sprinkler. I think the plug will be so these kids could plant a garden. It could generate income for the school (since they don't have much in the way of desks and chairs) and it also is teaching this kids a life skill which they will desperately need considering their schooling will only get them through 6th grade. This NGO could possibly help with secondary school as well...but that's another proposal. not only would this well be good for a garden but they have no access to water at the school either. For drinking, for washing their hands, etc. NONE. As health sector workers we stress washing hands after using the nyegen (bathroom), before eating, after playing, etc and yet they have no access to water all day long. I picture this is going to be an easy request...it will be all about presentation.
6. I think I will do my mural on the wall of the nygen as well. it should be about making sure to wash your hands after using the bathroom. I should probably wait to see if the well request goes through first.
So that's my plans for the next 6 months. I'm hoping other things come up in the meantime otherwise the year and a half after that will be very long and boring. I'm sure there will be plenty to do, but these are easily obtainable goals and very much a big need in my community. It's amazing how simple things that would be no big deal to us could make all the difference in the world to others.
I am at camp until tuesday so I will hope to get in touch with each of you through magic Jack which kind of sucks but it's a free phone call or skype or email. After I move to my permanent site it will be easier to stay in touch. i thinK I will make Sunday the day that I travel to my banking town. I can stay overnight with a volunteer that has electricity and internet. The connection should be better than it is here so I will have regular Sunday contact. I can't wait. Not knowing when I can contact you all and if the internet would be working or not has been a big stresser for me. It will be nice to know it is a regular thing and can plan on speaking to you guys.
I love you all so much and I hope all is well in your half of the world.
Clare...mom!
Friday, March 18, 2011
Random Faces of Africa
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| The opitomy of Africa. Fullani (Malian minority ethnicity) elder. |
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| Two young girls...one brushing her teeth with a stick. |
*I saw chickens today eating raw chicken and eggs. Does anyone else find this disturbing?
*There is an older woman always carrying this one little boy with her. I saw her breastfeeding him so my assumption was that, although older, she was his mother. Apparently assuming in Africa is just as bad as assuming in America. Later that day I saw a girl about 18 or 19 breastfeeding the same baby. I asked and yes that baby is hers. Hmm? C’est Afrique (that’s Africa).
Time to go already!?
March 17, 2011
Today Miriam went to Bamako to turn in reports from Maternity and to visit her husband and children. I ate with her before she left. To get on a bus to Bamako you must wait by the side of the road and when you see one of the charter buses coming you wave them down to stop. If they have room they will stop. If not you have to wait for the next bus...or the next bus...or the next bus. Apparently the first 4 buses over a 2 hour period of time did not have room. Since Africans take everything slowly and in stride it did not seem to bother anyone else but me that we were still standing out there 2 hours later. Finally a bus stopped and she was gone. Souleymane (my homologue) told me to meet him back at 2 and we would into the next village where the market is. It is Thursday...the only market day of the week.
At about noon, the young girl that hangs out at Miriam’s house came by with my lunch. As usual there was tooooo much rice. I ate some and left some in the bowl and will bring it back with me when I go to meet Souleymane later. They hate when you don’t finish all your food. Apparently though, they think they are feeding two...maybe three. Out of boredom and pure exhaustion from not sleeping in the heat at night I laid down for a little while. I didn’t sleep of course. Who can...my room is 95 degrees. When I got ready to go I noticed that ants had invaded the rice bowl. I figured I’ll just toss the rice on my way over. The goats will love it. But as I was leaving the old man from next door decided to join me on my way over. How am I going to dump the rice now??!! He took the bowl from me. The best way I could I told him the issue. He was very upset about this. When we got back to the house he didn’t hesitate to let everyone know that there were ants in the rice. The young girl that cooks looked at me like I was nuts and exclaimed “I A La” (Oh my god), and the older girl that had bought me my food was just mortified. Apparently they have never seen ants before in Africa...which, frankly, I find very hard to believe. Whatever. The old man picked out all the ants and then offered to put the peanut butter sauce on it so I could finish my lunch. I told him thank you anyone but I was finished with my lunch from earlier. So he ate it himself, but obviously everyone was still very upset. They then asked me what I was still doing there. I told them I was waiting for Souleymane to go the market. They said he already left and then told me “E be taa”...you go. So I left. I went back to my house and held up in there all day. Every time I think things are getting better for me something totally stupid happens that makes me think what the hell is wrong with these people? Do they have no sense? They have to know ants are an issue here in Africa. They must know by now being that I return my food only half eaten that they are giving me too much. WHAT THE HELL!!
Now I’m laying in my bed wondering what am I doing here. These people invited us to come to their country to help them become more developed and yet they treat us like shit. Why? Why would they purposefully make people feel bad? Do they not realize that they are making me feel bad? Do they not realize the stupid deal they make over the smallest things? Children are dying of malaria everyday, women are having 5, 6, 7 and 8 children, and the men sit around and do nothing most of their lives. They don’t see the horrors in these facts but the ants got in the rice...that upsets them. I left my family...my children to put up with this crap. What was I thinking.
So after all that, the old man and some younger guys came over to put up my gua (overhang) in front of my house to shield the sun so I can sit outside my house during the day. I saw them out there and went in my room so I wouldn’t have to talk to them. He said they weren’t going to work on it until Saturday. I’m thinking it’s his way of apologizing. He can shove his apology.
March 18, 2011
Miriam came back last night. Late I’m assuming as she didn’t come by to see me. Of course, I’m sure she heard about the ant incident. The whole village probably knows. But I can’t imagine she would make a big of a deal of it that everyone else did. We had breakfast and then it was time for me to go.
Today I am heading out of Bougoula and back to camp. I’m actually looking forward to it. Yesterdays events aside, it has been a really rough week. Except for the time that Krystal was with me I haven’t had anyone to speak with. I’ve hung out and spoke as much Bambara as I could, drank as much tea as I could and have been as pleasant as I could. But I’m done now. It’s time to leave and put some space in between me and Bougoula until it is time for me to move here.
We go out to the road to start the long awaited bus vigil. No sooner do we sit down to wait two buses right in a row going hauling ass down the street. I could see quickly that the second one was practically empty. AAAHHHHHH....no one ran out there to get it. Son of a bitch. It’s 40 minutes before the next one comes by. I take this bus 45 minutes to the next largest town, Bougouni, to meet up with 2 other volunteers so we can ride into Bamako together. We meet, we bus and we arrive at Tubaniso. I’m glad to be back. I guess we are a day early and no one was expecting us. All the other volunteers won’t be in until sometime tomorrow. I’m assuming scattering in here and there as everyone is coming from different places on public transportation. I’m excited to see how everyone enjoyed what will be there new home. In the meantime, we are supposed to go into Bamako after showering and dressing for some kind of “frat” party with the new volunteers. I’m not feeling great so I’m going to stay back and rest. I have a ceiling fan in my room and it seems much cooler in there than outside. So I am going to update my blog, check emails, call my kids and siblings and try and get a good night sleep. This I am looking forward to. Of course I am at this big giant camp all by myself. Hopefully visions of bugey men won’t dance in my head.
Today Miriam went to Bamako to turn in reports from Maternity and to visit her husband and children. I ate with her before she left. To get on a bus to Bamako you must wait by the side of the road and when you see one of the charter buses coming you wave them down to stop. If they have room they will stop. If not you have to wait for the next bus...or the next bus...or the next bus. Apparently the first 4 buses over a 2 hour period of time did not have room. Since Africans take everything slowly and in stride it did not seem to bother anyone else but me that we were still standing out there 2 hours later. Finally a bus stopped and she was gone. Souleymane (my homologue) told me to meet him back at 2 and we would into the next village where the market is. It is Thursday...the only market day of the week.
At about noon, the young girl that hangs out at Miriam’s house came by with my lunch. As usual there was tooooo much rice. I ate some and left some in the bowl and will bring it back with me when I go to meet Souleymane later. They hate when you don’t finish all your food. Apparently though, they think they are feeding two...maybe three. Out of boredom and pure exhaustion from not sleeping in the heat at night I laid down for a little while. I didn’t sleep of course. Who can...my room is 95 degrees. When I got ready to go I noticed that ants had invaded the rice bowl. I figured I’ll just toss the rice on my way over. The goats will love it. But as I was leaving the old man from next door decided to join me on my way over. How am I going to dump the rice now??!! He took the bowl from me. The best way I could I told him the issue. He was very upset about this. When we got back to the house he didn’t hesitate to let everyone know that there were ants in the rice. The young girl that cooks looked at me like I was nuts and exclaimed “I A La” (Oh my god), and the older girl that had bought me my food was just mortified. Apparently they have never seen ants before in Africa...which, frankly, I find very hard to believe. Whatever. The old man picked out all the ants and then offered to put the peanut butter sauce on it so I could finish my lunch. I told him thank you anyone but I was finished with my lunch from earlier. So he ate it himself, but obviously everyone was still very upset. They then asked me what I was still doing there. I told them I was waiting for Souleymane to go the market. They said he already left and then told me “E be taa”...you go. So I left. I went back to my house and held up in there all day. Every time I think things are getting better for me something totally stupid happens that makes me think what the hell is wrong with these people? Do they have no sense? They have to know ants are an issue here in Africa. They must know by now being that I return my food only half eaten that they are giving me too much. WHAT THE HELL!!
Now I’m laying in my bed wondering what am I doing here. These people invited us to come to their country to help them become more developed and yet they treat us like shit. Why? Why would they purposefully make people feel bad? Do they not realize that they are making me feel bad? Do they not realize the stupid deal they make over the smallest things? Children are dying of malaria everyday, women are having 5, 6, 7 and 8 children, and the men sit around and do nothing most of their lives. They don’t see the horrors in these facts but the ants got in the rice...that upsets them. I left my family...my children to put up with this crap. What was I thinking.
So after all that, the old man and some younger guys came over to put up my gua (overhang) in front of my house to shield the sun so I can sit outside my house during the day. I saw them out there and went in my room so I wouldn’t have to talk to them. He said they weren’t going to work on it until Saturday. I’m thinking it’s his way of apologizing. He can shove his apology.
March 18, 2011
Miriam came back last night. Late I’m assuming as she didn’t come by to see me. Of course, I’m sure she heard about the ant incident. The whole village probably knows. But I can’t imagine she would make a big of a deal of it that everyone else did. We had breakfast and then it was time for me to go.
Today I am heading out of Bougoula and back to camp. I’m actually looking forward to it. Yesterdays events aside, it has been a really rough week. Except for the time that Krystal was with me I haven’t had anyone to speak with. I’ve hung out and spoke as much Bambara as I could, drank as much tea as I could and have been as pleasant as I could. But I’m done now. It’s time to leave and put some space in between me and Bougoula until it is time for me to move here.
We go out to the road to start the long awaited bus vigil. No sooner do we sit down to wait two buses right in a row going hauling ass down the street. I could see quickly that the second one was practically empty. AAAHHHHHH....no one ran out there to get it. Son of a bitch. It’s 40 minutes before the next one comes by. I take this bus 45 minutes to the next largest town, Bougouni, to meet up with 2 other volunteers so we can ride into Bamako together. We meet, we bus and we arrive at Tubaniso. I’m glad to be back. I guess we are a day early and no one was expecting us. All the other volunteers won’t be in until sometime tomorrow. I’m assuming scattering in here and there as everyone is coming from different places on public transportation. I’m excited to see how everyone enjoyed what will be there new home. In the meantime, we are supposed to go into Bamako after showering and dressing for some kind of “frat” party with the new volunteers. I’m not feeling great so I’m going to stay back and rest. I have a ceiling fan in my room and it seems much cooler in there than outside. So I am going to update my blog, check emails, call my kids and siblings and try and get a good night sleep. This I am looking forward to. Of course I am at this big giant camp all by myself. Hopefully visions of bugey men won’t dance in my head.
March 16, 2011
Krystal is leaving this morning. I am sad to see her go. She has found out so much useful information due to her language skills in the short time she’s been here. Today I go back to not being able to communicate again. Oh well...I am going to have to figure it out myself...and study. We go up to the main road to wait for the bus to pass that will take her back to her home site. Thankfully she lives very close and I will see her again. There is a PCV that lives in Bougouni, my banking town...her banking town...that PC is allowing her to get her own compound with multiple buildings/rooms. Because she is in town she will have electricity and internet. She will then open this home to all other volunteers that pass through or live in this area as a “transit” house. I can go there, I’m thinking once a week, like Sunday and spend the night. I can use the internet Sunday, have electricity to recharge all my stuff, relax with other americans, have some food from the “city” and a cold soda...I hear they have diet Coke... and get a good night sleep. Then Monday morning I can take care of any banking stuff and/or post office stuff...receiving or sending mail/packages. Then I can return home before lunch. It’s so close I could actually go there twice a week if I wanted, but I can’t imagine this will be necessary. My marketing town has market on Thursday. Bougouni has market everyday. So I can buy any replacement supplies and food to last until Thursday while I am there. It should work out great. And, if, for some reason the boys need me they can text or make a one minute phone call to let me know they need to talk to me and I can hop on a bus and be on skype of the phone in an hour. With that being said I get the whole experience of living in a small remote village. There are only 2,400 people in my village and although they are on the main road to everywhere in either direction they are remote and their own village and their own community in and of themselves. I haven’t been here long enough to know for sure but I think I have a pretty sweet set up.
It is really windy today. I don’t want to complain because it sure cuts back on some of the heat, but my eyes won’t stop tearing. The dust really kicks up in these little dirt devils. It’s funny but at the same time my skin and hair is gritty now.
It’s 12:30 and time for lunch. Miriam has brought my lunch to me today. I don’t know what I will do without her. I have to do something to show my gratitude. I will be leaving Saturday and they say you shouldn’t give money. But when I come back in a couple of weeks, I will stop at the market in Bougouni on the way and pick up fruits and vegetables and some rice to give her as appreciation for her making sure I have been fed during my stay here. They always appreciate getting food....especially fruits they wouldn’t usually be able to get otherwise. That will be good.
I "worked" with her today at the clinic. In other words I sat while she examined a young girl that has been vomiting and a sick coughing feverish baby. I could barely understand a word they were saying. I figured even if I just sit for these next three months and observe surely I will learn something along the way. Miriam said I could come with her both days the clinic is open and I can be there with her when she delivers any babies along the way. I have had 2 children but have never actually seen a baby be born. I'm excited.
11pm - I didn’t eat dinner tonight. I was reading and letting it cool off when my neighbor came over to chat. I thought he asked if I had food to eat and I was telling him yes. Apparently what he was asking was did I eat already. See how this language barrier could be a real detriment. So he made me come have tea. Having tea and the socialization that goes with the brewing of the tea is so important to their culture. So I went. That was 2 hours ago. I am finally back in my 95 degree room. It is 11pm and alllll the kids are out playing. It’s amazing how late they stay up and out. I am told that they either go to school and then they have chores to do the likes we can’t even begin to understand. This time of night everything is done. No more laundry or dishes or cooking to do. They finally get to be kids.
Miriam has s young girl that works for her...I’m assuming. I’m sure she pays her and this girl is amazing. She does all the cooking...three meals a day, all the laundry, caters to every adults whim that comes into her home, gets them water to drink, water for tea...even makes the tea for guests herself. She can’t be 13 years old. I guess it’s good. I’m sure Miriam pays her well, but if she is there doing all these chores from the minute she gets up until the minute she goes to bed, one would have to assume she doesn’t go to school. Very sad.
It is really windy today. I don’t want to complain because it sure cuts back on some of the heat, but my eyes won’t stop tearing. The dust really kicks up in these little dirt devils. It’s funny but at the same time my skin and hair is gritty now.
It’s 12:30 and time for lunch. Miriam has brought my lunch to me today. I don’t know what I will do without her. I have to do something to show my gratitude. I will be leaving Saturday and they say you shouldn’t give money. But when I come back in a couple of weeks, I will stop at the market in Bougouni on the way and pick up fruits and vegetables and some rice to give her as appreciation for her making sure I have been fed during my stay here. They always appreciate getting food....especially fruits they wouldn’t usually be able to get otherwise. That will be good.
I "worked" with her today at the clinic. In other words I sat while she examined a young girl that has been vomiting and a sick coughing feverish baby. I could barely understand a word they were saying. I figured even if I just sit for these next three months and observe surely I will learn something along the way. Miriam said I could come with her both days the clinic is open and I can be there with her when she delivers any babies along the way. I have had 2 children but have never actually seen a baby be born. I'm excited.
11pm - I didn’t eat dinner tonight. I was reading and letting it cool off when my neighbor came over to chat. I thought he asked if I had food to eat and I was telling him yes. Apparently what he was asking was did I eat already. See how this language barrier could be a real detriment. So he made me come have tea. Having tea and the socialization that goes with the brewing of the tea is so important to their culture. So I went. That was 2 hours ago. I am finally back in my 95 degree room. It is 11pm and alllll the kids are out playing. It’s amazing how late they stay up and out. I am told that they either go to school and then they have chores to do the likes we can’t even begin to understand. This time of night everything is done. No more laundry or dishes or cooking to do. They finally get to be kids.
Miriam has s young girl that works for her...I’m assuming. I’m sure she pays her and this girl is amazing. She does all the cooking...three meals a day, all the laundry, caters to every adults whim that comes into her home, gets them water to drink, water for tea...even makes the tea for guests herself. She can’t be 13 years old. I guess it’s good. I’m sure Miriam pays her well, but if she is there doing all these chores from the minute she gets up until the minute she goes to bed, one would have to assume she doesn’t go to school. Very sad.
Land HO...AMERICANS!!
March 15, 2011
It’s only been 2 days without another American around me and someone to speak with in English but it was enough to make me feel crazy and alone. The Peace Corps rep who came for a site visit came with 2 other volunteers that have been here for 8 months already. He came to meet the local elders, including but not limited to the dugutigi and to make sure the house was up to PC standards and there wasn’t repairs or anything that needed to be made. They are good at doing this too. I would feel bad saying well it’s nice that you built this new house and bathroom but why isn’t the gua up yet?? They have no hesitation. So he looked around the house, him and the american chicks agreed that it was nice and new and they loved my nyegen. He asked why the gua wasn’t finished yet and they said it should be done by Saturday. He wanted to know why since the foundation is up it should only be a couple of hours job. I asked about the opening in the roof and showed him the part of the paperwork that said there is a bat and rat issue in this area. He said that nothing should get in as is but they would plug up these openings when they finished the stucco (cement) on the outside...which frankly I didn’t even notice wasn’t done. Then we all went over to meet with the elders and dugutigi again. Me and this guy should be great friends anytime now. That went well...blessings and greetings all around. They discussed what my job here is and they are to insure my safety and well being. There is a family that is in charge of making sure I have what I need or to leave me alone if that is what I desire. That would include the young, kind of weird girl with the little baby that has been getting me my water twice a day. She is 19, her baby is about 6 months and her husband is currently out of town for another week.
We finished our meeting and the PC staff was ready to leave. Both American girls were staying though. One girl is just waiting for the bus to take her to Bougouni (my banking town 32k from here) and the other was going to spend the day and night with me. Krystal is amazing. She has been here 8 months and is what appears to be fluent in Bambara. I’m not sure if this inspired me or causes me more anxiety. Will I be able to be that good in such a short period of time. I don’t think so. The other girl that was with her says that her skill are crazy good and no one else in their group has picked the language up like that. So...there you go...hearing her just causes me anxiety. We spent the day talking with my homologue and the matrone and now I’m sure they’ll be expecting me to speak as well any day now. This matrone is so excited to have me here and is the one that went to the PC to ask for a volunteer to begin with and went through all the processes. I don’t want to disappoint her. And having the skills to communicate and get things done is going to be key to everything. I’m definitely feeling anxious. Krystal assured me that I will pick up good bambara skills quickly, as I don’t have much french and no one...NO ONE...speaks English. I have no choice but the learn...and quickly.
Krystal and I had a great day and night. It was nice getting to know her and absorbing so much information from her. She’s awesome.
The goals for me for the first 5-6 months are simple ones. Spend the first 10 weeks at homestay learning the language (almost done). Once I get to my permanent site (which I am at now just for 5 days to check it out) the first 3 months I will spend immersing myself in the community, working on language and assessing what the community needs. I am not supposed to do any work during this time period. Sorry...that’s not going to happen. I can’t just sit around, yala yala ing (walking around), baroking (chatting it up with the peeps) and not working. I told the matrone that I want to spend whatever days she is at the maternity (clinic) there with her. I won’t do anything but observe and learn some technical language skills. Getting to know the women and children that come in there and them getting to know me. That’s immersing, right? Also, I just found out that they don’t do babying weighing here because they don’t have a scale. It is my understanding that each health volunteer will get a scale to bring to their home site. I will keep mine at the clinic. DONE!!
I already spoke to Miriam about the bashi jiri ni (moringa tree). I told her I was going to get some seeds and we can plant this tree all over the village. They grow fast and their nutritional value is not to be replaced or duplicated by anything else they could do or eat. And it grows so simply and quick. She is very excited to get these trees started. And what better time to start them then just as we are moving into rainy season. Although they don’t need a lot of water to sustain themselves, they do need water to get a good start. Perfect timing. There is also the Mali tree that the leaves mixed with hot peppers and oil make a natural mosquito repellent. Project #2. I am very excited. I have read other PCVs blogs in where they really didn’t do anything for months after they got here. Both of these things have to be able to be turned into income generators. Whether it’s selling the finished products or starting a nursery of these trees that the villagers can buy and plant in their own compounds so after the initial expense is spent they will always have access to these products. If Miriam is willing she could start the trees herself and the income that she generates could go towards the needs of the clinic. They need a refrigerator. Project #3 just took care of itself.
These may be little things but they will mean so much...especially the moringa tree. Although malnutrition doesn’t seem to be a problem here, at this time, Miriam has told me that it is an issue during rainy season...when the local gardening floods, when the women can’t get to the next town 7k to get supplies and food. All they eat is toh (flour), rice and beans. Not enough to make healthy adults or children. Being able to add the pounded or fresh leaves of the moringa tree to these staples will be an irreplaceable supplement to their diets. Truly a miracle tree.
We (Krystal, Miriam and Soleymani and myself) walked over to the school today. It is across the main road and then about ½ mile down the dirt road to what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. There are no other buildings or homes along the way. It seemed like a far walk...maybe because it’s 105 degrees. I don’t know, I’m just saying. Anyway the school goes from 1st grade to 6th. That’s it. There are no other schools in the area. To continue past 6th grade these kids would have to take the bus to another village. I’m assuming that doesn’t happen as these families do not have the money to pay for the bus. They school yard was neat and clean (they certainly do not have the trash all over this village like my homestay site...for this I am very grateful). They had flowers growing around the school yard. But this is a difficult task for them. The only pump for water on this side of the main road was up by the main road...1/2 mile away. The kids have old soda and water bottles with them. They will walk up the to the road, fill their bottles with water and walk back to water the plants. OMG...that’s crazy. So during this conversation it became apparent what Project #4 is. They need a well at the school. For so many reasons. One...they should have water so the kids can wash their hands after using the nyegen. We as health volunteers emphasize the necessity of hand washing and here is a school that doesn’t have access to water. No wonder they are always sick. They shouldn’t drink well water, it would probably kill us, but it is a better option than going all day without water. Also, they could be growing a garden to teach these kids how to raise vegetables for food for their families and to show them how to generate income in their futures (especially since school only goes to 6th grade...what else are they going to do). Then of course to continue to grow their flowers. A well...it is simple and doesn’t cost that much. Just more than this village has. There are NGOs in the area that work on building or improving schools. I believe this village has already worked with them in the past. But they don’t have the groups together, the format of community members, to put their wants and ideas into comprehensible thoughts and requests and then go for them...with blazing guns until they get what they need.
PC does not give out money and does not build things for villages...without village contributions...ie, funding, labor...so it is possible with labor from the village PC could also help. They give them the means by which to figure it out and do it for themselves. Our goal is to make sure they are able to sustain any life style changes we have helped them with long after we are gone. So PC does not GIVE things to these communities. They give them the resources they need to do it themselves. This communities resource is me. I can help them put this format together to move forward to these NGOs and get the help and funding they need to build a well. I can go with them to get the seeds to start and plant the moringa trees and the Mali trees. They can grow them on their own, but they don’t even know these trees exist. I hope I can do PC proud and I can do my village the privilege in helping their quality of life to the extent that they will never forget me and the small knowledge I brought to their lives. For the first time since being in Africa I am truly excited. Even without language skills I think all of the things mentioned above could be done within the first 6 months of being here. I hope I’m not being to over anxious...and I heard there is a lot of red tape to do things in this country but each of these is so small...
The older man, my host families dad, that always comes to talk to me came over this evening to baroke with both myself and Krystal. He said he would work on the gua and hopefully it would be done before I get back in three weeks. She told him it took the men in her village 4 hours to put up her gua. LOL!! Gotta love these young girls with balls. Then he talked to us about my fence. Each PCV is supposed to have a fence around their compound for privacy. There are bricks still around outside which has now been made clear will be my fence that will surround the front area of my house including my nyegen. Which is nice to know. I hate when the whole surrounding neighbors know when I’m going to the bathroom...and insist and greeting you on the way. Really?! Right now you want to greet. I’m going to the bathroom. Anyway, he mentioned how he was intending on putting it. Almost so that it would include the home of the young girl next door and their house. So she told him no, and that it needed to go around the other way. He is in agreement. She is awesome.
It’s only been 2 days without another American around me and someone to speak with in English but it was enough to make me feel crazy and alone. The Peace Corps rep who came for a site visit came with 2 other volunteers that have been here for 8 months already. He came to meet the local elders, including but not limited to the dugutigi and to make sure the house was up to PC standards and there wasn’t repairs or anything that needed to be made. They are good at doing this too. I would feel bad saying well it’s nice that you built this new house and bathroom but why isn’t the gua up yet?? They have no hesitation. So he looked around the house, him and the american chicks agreed that it was nice and new and they loved my nyegen. He asked why the gua wasn’t finished yet and they said it should be done by Saturday. He wanted to know why since the foundation is up it should only be a couple of hours job. I asked about the opening in the roof and showed him the part of the paperwork that said there is a bat and rat issue in this area. He said that nothing should get in as is but they would plug up these openings when they finished the stucco (cement) on the outside...which frankly I didn’t even notice wasn’t done. Then we all went over to meet with the elders and dugutigi again. Me and this guy should be great friends anytime now. That went well...blessings and greetings all around. They discussed what my job here is and they are to insure my safety and well being. There is a family that is in charge of making sure I have what I need or to leave me alone if that is what I desire. That would include the young, kind of weird girl with the little baby that has been getting me my water twice a day. She is 19, her baby is about 6 months and her husband is currently out of town for another week.
We finished our meeting and the PC staff was ready to leave. Both American girls were staying though. One girl is just waiting for the bus to take her to Bougouni (my banking town 32k from here) and the other was going to spend the day and night with me. Krystal is amazing. She has been here 8 months and is what appears to be fluent in Bambara. I’m not sure if this inspired me or causes me more anxiety. Will I be able to be that good in such a short period of time. I don’t think so. The other girl that was with her says that her skill are crazy good and no one else in their group has picked the language up like that. So...there you go...hearing her just causes me anxiety. We spent the day talking with my homologue and the matrone and now I’m sure they’ll be expecting me to speak as well any day now. This matrone is so excited to have me here and is the one that went to the PC to ask for a volunteer to begin with and went through all the processes. I don’t want to disappoint her. And having the skills to communicate and get things done is going to be key to everything. I’m definitely feeling anxious. Krystal assured me that I will pick up good bambara skills quickly, as I don’t have much french and no one...NO ONE...speaks English. I have no choice but the learn...and quickly.
Krystal and I had a great day and night. It was nice getting to know her and absorbing so much information from her. She’s awesome.
The goals for me for the first 5-6 months are simple ones. Spend the first 10 weeks at homestay learning the language (almost done). Once I get to my permanent site (which I am at now just for 5 days to check it out) the first 3 months I will spend immersing myself in the community, working on language and assessing what the community needs. I am not supposed to do any work during this time period. Sorry...that’s not going to happen. I can’t just sit around, yala yala ing (walking around), baroking (chatting it up with the peeps) and not working. I told the matrone that I want to spend whatever days she is at the maternity (clinic) there with her. I won’t do anything but observe and learn some technical language skills. Getting to know the women and children that come in there and them getting to know me. That’s immersing, right? Also, I just found out that they don’t do babying weighing here because they don’t have a scale. It is my understanding that each health volunteer will get a scale to bring to their home site. I will keep mine at the clinic. DONE!!
I already spoke to Miriam about the bashi jiri ni (moringa tree). I told her I was going to get some seeds and we can plant this tree all over the village. They grow fast and their nutritional value is not to be replaced or duplicated by anything else they could do or eat. And it grows so simply and quick. She is very excited to get these trees started. And what better time to start them then just as we are moving into rainy season. Although they don’t need a lot of water to sustain themselves, they do need water to get a good start. Perfect timing. There is also the Mali tree that the leaves mixed with hot peppers and oil make a natural mosquito repellent. Project #2. I am very excited. I have read other PCVs blogs in where they really didn’t do anything for months after they got here. Both of these things have to be able to be turned into income generators. Whether it’s selling the finished products or starting a nursery of these trees that the villagers can buy and plant in their own compounds so after the initial expense is spent they will always have access to these products. If Miriam is willing she could start the trees herself and the income that she generates could go towards the needs of the clinic. They need a refrigerator. Project #3 just took care of itself.
These may be little things but they will mean so much...especially the moringa tree. Although malnutrition doesn’t seem to be a problem here, at this time, Miriam has told me that it is an issue during rainy season...when the local gardening floods, when the women can’t get to the next town 7k to get supplies and food. All they eat is toh (flour), rice and beans. Not enough to make healthy adults or children. Being able to add the pounded or fresh leaves of the moringa tree to these staples will be an irreplaceable supplement to their diets. Truly a miracle tree.
We (Krystal, Miriam and Soleymani and myself) walked over to the school today. It is across the main road and then about ½ mile down the dirt road to what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. There are no other buildings or homes along the way. It seemed like a far walk...maybe because it’s 105 degrees. I don’t know, I’m just saying. Anyway the school goes from 1st grade to 6th. That’s it. There are no other schools in the area. To continue past 6th grade these kids would have to take the bus to another village. I’m assuming that doesn’t happen as these families do not have the money to pay for the bus. They school yard was neat and clean (they certainly do not have the trash all over this village like my homestay site...for this I am very grateful). They had flowers growing around the school yard. But this is a difficult task for them. The only pump for water on this side of the main road was up by the main road...1/2 mile away. The kids have old soda and water bottles with them. They will walk up the to the road, fill their bottles with water and walk back to water the plants. OMG...that’s crazy. So during this conversation it became apparent what Project #4 is. They need a well at the school. For so many reasons. One...they should have water so the kids can wash their hands after using the nyegen. We as health volunteers emphasize the necessity of hand washing and here is a school that doesn’t have access to water. No wonder they are always sick. They shouldn’t drink well water, it would probably kill us, but it is a better option than going all day without water. Also, they could be growing a garden to teach these kids how to raise vegetables for food for their families and to show them how to generate income in their futures (especially since school only goes to 6th grade...what else are they going to do). Then of course to continue to grow their flowers. A well...it is simple and doesn’t cost that much. Just more than this village has. There are NGOs in the area that work on building or improving schools. I believe this village has already worked with them in the past. But they don’t have the groups together, the format of community members, to put their wants and ideas into comprehensible thoughts and requests and then go for them...with blazing guns until they get what they need.
PC does not give out money and does not build things for villages...without village contributions...ie, funding, labor...so it is possible with labor from the village PC could also help. They give them the means by which to figure it out and do it for themselves. Our goal is to make sure they are able to sustain any life style changes we have helped them with long after we are gone. So PC does not GIVE things to these communities. They give them the resources they need to do it themselves. This communities resource is me. I can help them put this format together to move forward to these NGOs and get the help and funding they need to build a well. I can go with them to get the seeds to start and plant the moringa trees and the Mali trees. They can grow them on their own, but they don’t even know these trees exist. I hope I can do PC proud and I can do my village the privilege in helping their quality of life to the extent that they will never forget me and the small knowledge I brought to their lives. For the first time since being in Africa I am truly excited. Even without language skills I think all of the things mentioned above could be done within the first 6 months of being here. I hope I’m not being to over anxious...and I heard there is a lot of red tape to do things in this country but each of these is so small...
The older man, my host families dad, that always comes to talk to me came over this evening to baroke with both myself and Krystal. He said he would work on the gua and hopefully it would be done before I get back in three weeks. She told him it took the men in her village 4 hours to put up her gua. LOL!! Gotta love these young girls with balls. Then he talked to us about my fence. Each PCV is supposed to have a fence around their compound for privacy. There are bricks still around outside which has now been made clear will be my fence that will surround the front area of my house including my nyegen. Which is nice to know. I hate when the whole surrounding neighbors know when I’m going to the bathroom...and insist and greeting you on the way. Really?! Right now you want to greet. I’m going to the bathroom. Anyway, he mentioned how he was intending on putting it. Almost so that it would include the home of the young girl next door and their house. So she told him no, and that it needed to go around the other way. He is in agreement. She is awesome.
Whatever gets you through the night!!
March 14, 2011
Well I made it through the night...barely. If you add all the minutes up together I probably slept for an hour. I don’t think I’ve ever been so uncomfortable and hot in my life. At 2am it rained for about 10 minutes. How do I know this...see above...I was awake all night. I have the same issue here as I do in my homestay site with the cement falling from the ceiling when the birds land, the wind blows and it rains. It sounds like stuff running around on the floor. But it’s just my ceiling falling apart. I confirmed it after careful inspection when it got light this morning. I probably fell asleep at 6am when I couldn’t keep my eyes open a second longer. At 6:20 my neighbor, some young girl with a little baby, I’m assuming related to the dugutigi, knocked on my door to ask for my bucket to get me some water. Really!! Are you frickin kidding me right now. I thought the one thing I wouldn’t have to worry about is living on someone elses time once I left my homestay. When I want water I will ask for it. Don’t wake me up, don’t bother me, don’t feed me if you don’t want...all of this is fine with me. Of course, I can’t complain though. I don’t even know where to go to get my water at this point, and I certainly don’t have the means to cook for myself. I laid back down for about ½ hour and then got up and took my bath. As usual it felt great. Even though it’s 7am I’m sweating. So the cool water hits the spot.
After I try and lay down, but NOOOOO...people here have no sense of privacy or space. One of the first of the elders I met yesterday is at my house already. I have a pan~a wrapped around me and nothing else on. Really!! Can’t you see I’m not dressed and maybe coming back in a minute or so would be a good choice. But again, no sense of privacy or space. When he steps outside I get dressed real quick skipping the unimportant things like underwear and deodorant. I just need close on. He tells me that if I go to Miriam’s house, the matrone, my new friend, she will give me breakfast. I think he wants me to walk with him but I take my time and he leaves. Of course he’s back in 15 minutes. OK, O frickin K, I’ll go. I walk to Miriam’s house. By now it’s 8:45...I am a little hungry. She finally asks what I had for breakfast...again, I have no means to cook and no food for cooking...same as last night. Nothing has changed. She pulls out bread, mayonnaise and what is either tea or coffee. They really like eating mayonnaise alone on bread. And in Mali apparently they have magic never go bad mayonnaise. Although the jar says to refrigerate after opening, like most things, we Americans are overly cautious. You can live mayonnaise open, out of the fridge and in the heat for a good 2 months if not longer. It’s a miracle.
I finally make my way back home after telling everyone that I wasn’t able to sleep last night because of the heat to try and take a nap...before the highest heat part of the day. What nice neighbors I have. Two people came by knocking and yelling for me to ask me if I am able to sleep. WELL NOT ANYMORE. But thanks for your concern. WTH!! This is not the first time I thought that no matter what country you are from and how underdeveloped it may be doesn’t the same common sense instincts kick in?? Apparently not. After I told the first person that “I WAS sleeping” they said OK and to go back. 15 minutes later guest number 2 shows up. What a world, what a world!!! I finally lay down and fall asleep and am probably sleeping for 45 minutes when another knock on the door. I can’t complain. It’s Miriam with some lunch. She sees that I was sleeping and promptly leaves my food and takes off for home. AAAHHHHH...I can’t catch a break.
After lunch I walk back over to Miriam’s house to bring back my leftovers...which she’s not happy to see that I didn’t finish all my lunch...and visit. My homologue, Souleymani, shows up too. We sit and talk for a while. They let me know their desire for me to teach them English. Since I will be here for 2 years I tell them I will be glad to. The more English they know the less Bambara I will need to know. So for my own selfish reasons I agree to help them. Apparently lessons start today.
After I finally got to walk over to Souleymani’s house and meet his family. As I am to find out, Souleymani has 2 wives. Muso kelen (wife one) and muso fila (wife two). He has only 4 children. I don’t know who belongs to whom and didn’t think it was important enough to try and find the language to figure it out. So I left it at that. We talked, we laughed and we headed home. My water is waiting for me in the nyegen for my nightly bath. I’m too hot to even get up for my bath.
I saw my first rat today. It was chased off by chickens. Maybe that’s the trouble they were talking about on the form. I don’t think there are snakes here...not enough to worry about anyway. And I hear some bird making a high shrilling noise at night, maybe bats...but as long as they’re outside during the night and I’m inside they shouldn’t be a problem for me. The rats, I’m going to have issue with if they come inside though.
Well I made it through the night...barely. If you add all the minutes up together I probably slept for an hour. I don’t think I’ve ever been so uncomfortable and hot in my life. At 2am it rained for about 10 minutes. How do I know this...see above...I was awake all night. I have the same issue here as I do in my homestay site with the cement falling from the ceiling when the birds land, the wind blows and it rains. It sounds like stuff running around on the floor. But it’s just my ceiling falling apart. I confirmed it after careful inspection when it got light this morning. I probably fell asleep at 6am when I couldn’t keep my eyes open a second longer. At 6:20 my neighbor, some young girl with a little baby, I’m assuming related to the dugutigi, knocked on my door to ask for my bucket to get me some water. Really!! Are you frickin kidding me right now. I thought the one thing I wouldn’t have to worry about is living on someone elses time once I left my homestay. When I want water I will ask for it. Don’t wake me up, don’t bother me, don’t feed me if you don’t want...all of this is fine with me. Of course, I can’t complain though. I don’t even know where to go to get my water at this point, and I certainly don’t have the means to cook for myself. I laid back down for about ½ hour and then got up and took my bath. As usual it felt great. Even though it’s 7am I’m sweating. So the cool water hits the spot.
After I try and lay down, but NOOOOO...people here have no sense of privacy or space. One of the first of the elders I met yesterday is at my house already. I have a pan~a wrapped around me and nothing else on. Really!! Can’t you see I’m not dressed and maybe coming back in a minute or so would be a good choice. But again, no sense of privacy or space. When he steps outside I get dressed real quick skipping the unimportant things like underwear and deodorant. I just need close on. He tells me that if I go to Miriam’s house, the matrone, my new friend, she will give me breakfast. I think he wants me to walk with him but I take my time and he leaves. Of course he’s back in 15 minutes. OK, O frickin K, I’ll go. I walk to Miriam’s house. By now it’s 8:45...I am a little hungry. She finally asks what I had for breakfast...again, I have no means to cook and no food for cooking...same as last night. Nothing has changed. She pulls out bread, mayonnaise and what is either tea or coffee. They really like eating mayonnaise alone on bread. And in Mali apparently they have magic never go bad mayonnaise. Although the jar says to refrigerate after opening, like most things, we Americans are overly cautious. You can live mayonnaise open, out of the fridge and in the heat for a good 2 months if not longer. It’s a miracle.
I finally make my way back home after telling everyone that I wasn’t able to sleep last night because of the heat to try and take a nap...before the highest heat part of the day. What nice neighbors I have. Two people came by knocking and yelling for me to ask me if I am able to sleep. WELL NOT ANYMORE. But thanks for your concern. WTH!! This is not the first time I thought that no matter what country you are from and how underdeveloped it may be doesn’t the same common sense instincts kick in?? Apparently not. After I told the first person that “I WAS sleeping” they said OK and to go back. 15 minutes later guest number 2 shows up. What a world, what a world!!! I finally lay down and fall asleep and am probably sleeping for 45 minutes when another knock on the door. I can’t complain. It’s Miriam with some lunch. She sees that I was sleeping and promptly leaves my food and takes off for home. AAAHHHHH...I can’t catch a break.
After lunch I walk back over to Miriam’s house to bring back my leftovers...which she’s not happy to see that I didn’t finish all my lunch...and visit. My homologue, Souleymani, shows up too. We sit and talk for a while. They let me know their desire for me to teach them English. Since I will be here for 2 years I tell them I will be glad to. The more English they know the less Bambara I will need to know. So for my own selfish reasons I agree to help them. Apparently lessons start today.
After I finally got to walk over to Souleymani’s house and meet his family. As I am to find out, Souleymani has 2 wives. Muso kelen (wife one) and muso fila (wife two). He has only 4 children. I don’t know who belongs to whom and didn’t think it was important enough to try and find the language to figure it out. So I left it at that. We talked, we laughed and we headed home. My water is waiting for me in the nyegen for my nightly bath. I’m too hot to even get up for my bath.
I saw my first rat today. It was chased off by chickens. Maybe that’s the trouble they were talking about on the form. I don’t think there are snakes here...not enough to worry about anyway. And I hear some bird making a high shrilling noise at night, maybe bats...but as long as they’re outside during the night and I’m inside they shouldn’t be a problem for me. The rats, I’m going to have issue with if they come inside though.
Bougoula bound
March 13, 2011
The bus for the PCVs leaving for Sikasso Region, both City of Sikasso and Bouguni/Bougoula, was leaving promptly at 6:45am from Tubaniso. So at 7:15 when we finally left, the anxiety levels of everyone on the bus was high. Nervous, anxious, scared and plain just ready to move onto the next phase of this adventure.
Our bus was supposed to leave at 8am. Whaala, when we finally left at 8:45...what the hell...in California we would call this Mexican time. No one is ever on time, nothing ever leaves or starts on time. I guess I better get used to it. When you say our meeting starts at 9am some will come at 9:30 some 10 some even later...and they’ll be expecting said meeting.
The ride wasn’t too bad. Besides the fact that the bus driver beeps the horn of the bus constantly. It’s worse than the taxis in NY. Mostly here though they are letting those in front of them know to get out of the way or that they are planning on passing. The main “highway” is one lane in each direction. There is no shoulder and the bush taxis and motor scooters are pretty slow. So the bus without looking or slowing down just beeps and passes. We made several stops along the way. I’m not sure if they are pre-determined stops or when someone yells they just pull over. When you get to the big stops (Bougouni, my banking town) as soon as the bus pulls up street vendors bombard the bus trying to sell soda, water (both of which I can never buy...they reuse bottles and put god knows what in it, well water, homemade juice, etc), food (which the fried fish is FABULOUS), odds and ends, fans...and chicklits. Maybe I AM in Mexico. The whole ride from Bamako to Bougoula (thankfully the bus stops right in my town...I thought I’d have to get a bush taxi for the last 32K) took about 2 ½ hours. Not too bad...I can make Bamako a day trip anytime without hassle.
I was the first stop for the PCVs going to site along the way. There are 6 other PCVs on the bus...Not sure what happened to the other 6...they left before us. I’m assuming they took the same route and maybe actually made the 8am bus. When my homologue yelled to the bus driver to stop at Bougoula the other PCVs started saying their goodbyes, looked at me like I was going to the electric chair and wished me luck before the bus even stopped. As we pulled up one of the girls yelled, “OMG they have a whole group outside and they are playing drums”. With that the bus stopped, someone from outside the bus grabbed my hand and I was swept out of the bus without any of my belongings that I knew of before the wheels even stopped. I turned around and caught a glimpse of my homologue with my backpack and the underneath of the bus opening up for him to grab the rest of my stuff. Good thing he’s with me.
I was rushed over to a spot underneath a tree where there was about 30 women and a boatload of kids. Each of which wanted to shake my hand and greet me. They were playing little drums and gourds with the nets and beads around the outside. Some of the women were singing and everyone was clapping. They smiled and stared. The kids were in awe. Some of these people I’m sure have never seen a white person up close before. For a minute my heart was full. It wasn’t quite like anything I’ve ever experienced before. After about 15 minutes they announced they were taking me to meet the dugutigi (village chief). So we walked and walked a little more. I’m sure it wasn’t that far but when there are 30 people walked in front of, behind and to each side of you it felt like a long time. We reached his house and everyone squeezed under his gua (hanger). The old man that was swinging in the hammock I’m assuming is the man of the hour. He shook my hand greeted, talked about me with the other folks and then sent us on our way. We went out the “back” way. And just out the back caddicorner to him and far enough away for some privacy is my house. I little rectangular brick structure with a tin roof, door and couple of windows. The first room is about 12 X 10. Let’s call it the living room/kitchen. There is a wall in between and my bedroom on the other side of the opening. That room is about 12 X 14. Square, cement...what else could a girl ask for. Of course the main things I notice is there is a 1 ½ inch gap under the screen door. Lizards and/or small frogs could certainly get in through there...not to mention the huge spiders. Also, there is light coming through where the middle pitch of the roof is. Does this mean that lizards and or frogs, rats or bats could get in through there. Unacceptable. I can’t have things living with me. On Tuesday someone from PC will be making a home visit to make sure I have everything I need. I will ask them about these things then. They won’t be able to do anything about the gap in the door. I think what I’ll do is use material or a towel, roll it up and lay it in front of the opening on the inside when I’m inside and lay it along the outside between the screen door and the outside metal door when I leave. That should take care of that. As far as the gap in the room. I don’t think lizards can get up on this room. It is metal, it has a decent pitch and there is an overhand over the edge of the house. I’m pretty sure lizards won’t be able to climb on the metal to get around that overhand. But I’ll be certain to find out for sure on Tuesday. In the meantime, I’m just praying nothing finds its way in.
When you walk outside my house to the left, there it is, the new, the clean, the never been used before nyegen. My bathroom. I can’t wait to see it. Although it does have what looks like it could be an entry or dressing area, you couldn’t use it as such as the front door opens right up to the outside world. Although the only thing there is me. The hole is substantial. There’s a nice slope...not too much of one. I wouldn’t want to go in there someday half asleep and tip over while squatting.
After checking out my house I went with the Matrone over to her home. She has a sweet little set up right next to the CSCOM. They call it Maternity but they see sick people there, give vaccines, etc. So I’m calling it CSCOM. They have electricity. And running water...INSIDE. Hallelujah. I should check to see if they have a shower. I won’t have internet but at least I have a way to keep everything charged in between visits to my banking town. They do have broadband available here that I’m sure since I’m in between two big cities would work just fine. But on a volunteers salary can I really afford the luxury of $60-70 per month? I couldn’t afford that in the states. There is several rooms in the CSCOM...one building. The first room looks like a room where they just visit/have consultations. Then there is a room for sick people. Across the hall is the maternity ward. Three beds and three “cribs” ish. Then there is the delivery room. One gurney style bed, An actual sink with running water and a table of sorts. Much bigger than the “delivery room” at the CSCOM in my homestay site but with no more equipment...but the running water!! That was it. They deliver babies, give vaccinations, do family planning and take care of the sick and hurt.
The Matrone is very nice and I think we will be friends. That would be easier to determine if I could communicate better. In time, my friends, in time. At first I thought she was single with one daughter about 7...the most beautiful little girl...but later I will find out that she is muso fila (wife number 2), she is 47 and she had 5 children but 2 died. Her 2 other daughters are back and forth to Bamako for school and the youngest one is the only one still with her all the time. Her husband stays mostly in Bamako and comes “home” to her on Sundays. I like her a lot and will look forward to meeting her husband.
After having something to eat my homologue came back to get me and take me home. He came out of the Matrone’s house with a mattress (queen size if I’m not mistaken) to take to my house for me. I hope it’s not hers and she is sleeping on the floor for the week while I’m here. Maybe they bought it for me. I don’t have the language skills to ask. But I’ll figure it out by the time I leave. So my homologue, the matrone and myself walked back to my house. I live real close, which means I also live real close to the CSCOM...and the main road. You can see cars go by from her house, but from mine I don’t think you can hear or see anything. But when it’s time to travel...the road is right here and the bus stops right here. I’m glad for these 2 little things.
After getting the mattress in the house we talked about my mosquito net. I was trying to explain that I have a mosquito tent that can sit right on top of the mattress. U ma famu (they don’t understand). So I take it out and show them. Now they stay to help set it up...along with 4 other guests that just help themselves to come in and sit. After I set it up I tried to ask if they sleep outside when it is really hot. They thought I wanted them to leave so I can sleep. I finally convinced them that is not what I wanted but I don’t know how to say what I want so forget it. Nothing like insulting your hosts on the first day.
My house doesn’t have the gua (hanger, shade overhang) set up yet. In the pictures you’ll see what looks like tree stumps sticking out of the ground. They are tree stumps sticking up out of the ground. They are the foundation for and will hold up my gua. The material to make the thatched roof part is outside but the work has not been done yet. If it’s not done by Tuesday I will have the PC staff that comes on Tuesday figure that out for me. Also, from what I understood, each PCVs home should have a fence around the compound. I do not have a fence. And although I don’t want to be unsociable people (older folks and kids alike) will be coming up to and hanging out in front of my door and walking by and looking in. It would be nice to have some kind of separation from that. Not to mention I want to start a garden and plant a couple of moringa trees. If I don’t have a fence the animals will come and eat up all my stuff. One more thing to talk to the PC staff about on Tuesday. I better make a list.
I am hot. Even though it is not far from where I’ve been living and camp, the humidity does run a little higher here. The sweat doesn’t stop. It’s 94 in my house. I wonder if I can get a couple of z’s. I hear something on the roof. Maybe it’s just the creaking noise the tin makes in the heat. I hope.
8pm – I probably dozed off for a minute earlier. But the matrone and my homologue came back to get me for a meeting at the dugutigi’s house. There were 7 men (including the dugutigi), my homologue, the matrone and myself. My homologue started the discussion going over some of the things he learned at Corps de la Paix while he was there. Then they went around the room. It’s interesting because it appears that the youngest man would go first speaking pretty much directly to the next oldest. Then that person goes next speaking to the next oldest and so on...until it’s time for the dugutigi to speak. After each person is done speaking they go through about 5 blessings. One think I’ve learned to hear is A La. Whenever you hear mention of A La you just answer with “amiina”. You’re golden. Bambara is a very interesting language. It’s very simple, they use a lot of the same words over and over. They don’t really have much to talk about. Or maybe it’s that they can’t. There vocabulary is so limited it limits their conversation. They do mix a lot of french in though...because their vocabulary is so limited. When there isn’t a word for something they just throw french in. I find myself doing the same thing. The language I am learning is a mix of two languages. Bambara and French. I’m sure it will be a very useful skill by the time I am done. They also make a lot of noise when someone is talking to them. In our culture we would consider this rude. Here it is rude not to recognize that someone is speaking to you and confirm that you hear them by saying “awo” (yes) or “Nse” (if you’re a woman and has no real meaning) or Nba (if you’re a man and again has no real meaning)...or they make this clicking noise in the back of their throat. I thought their throats had a tickle from the dust and the wind but it is just an acknowledgement noise that they are listening and hearing you. I actually caught myself doing it once when someone was talking to me. That’ll be a nice thing to bring home with me. People will be talking to me and I’ll be walking around clicking my throat. Like the Bambara/French language...very useful in my future I’m sure.
I just peed and bathed in my new nyegen. How exciting. It was just getting dark, I was hot, the water was cool. It was pretty nice. Now I’m sitting in my room in my bug tent on top of the mattress. There’s not much else I can do. You can’t really stay outside. There is no light and if I use my book light the bugs come. So I am in my tent...hoping beyond hope that it cools off a little tonight.
Earlier the matrone asked me what I was doing for food. I told her I don’t know. I’m curious what makes her think I would have a way to eat. I’ve never been here before. I didn’t come with food. The market is only available on Thursday so I have no way to get food. And I have no cooking utensils, ie, stove, pots, plates, etc. Just when I was set on the fact that I would not be eating tonight, my homologue just came by with a light for me and to tell me the matrone would be here later with food for me. I’m pretty sure just rice, but I’m a little hungry. Rice is better than nothin.
The noise on the roof was birds. Big fat pigeons. Apparently some are more graceful than others. There was one that hit the roof like a ton of bricks. Scared the crap out of me. If the birds make that much noise imagine what the rain will sound like.
When I came inside from sitting out in front there was some kind of ugly bug I’ve never seen before sitting by the front door. Thankfully when I shooed it with my fan it went peacefully. One more thing to have to worry about. I really need to get something to put in front of that gap in the door...and always use it. I was only out there for a few minutes.
I actually had potatoes and some kind of meat. Definitely not cow. My guess is goat. I couldn’t finish it so with no real good alternative I went to throw the leftovers down the nyegen. On my way over there I ran into a frog and almost had a heart attack when I saw some kind of small animal in the nyegen. Until I realized it was a tiny baby goat my initial reaction was to ditch and run. I don’t know how I’m going to survive. If I don’t last the 2 years it will be because of frogs and bugs and lizards. I was reading my home site information packet before and it was check YES for problems with bats, rats and snakes. I’m hoping that was an error. One more question to ask on Tuesday.
Although I had some trouble with my homestay family at least they were in the same compound as me. Now, although the dugutigi and his huge family aren’t too far I’m really a bit alone out here. This is the first time I’ve felt so alone and a bit scared if I must admit since I’ve come to Africa. It’s only 9pm. It’s dark, I’m alone and have nothing to do and no one to talk to. I’m going to watch an episode of Big Bang Theory someone downloaded onto my external hard drive and hope at some point I can fall asleep.
*I’ve notice a lot of women and young girls (as young as 5, 6, 7ish) with two slashes on each side of their face just about an inch off the outside corner of their eyes. I’m assuming it’s some type of scarification. I’m assuming having them there in that particular spot is relevant to something since every girl/woman I’ve seen with them so far has them in the same place. The matrone (my newest friend) in my village doesn’t have them but her 6 year old daughter does. I believe it’s an ethnic thing. There are some of the other (other than Bambara) ethnicities that use such scarring. I’ve seen the two lines on each side of the eyes and I’ve also seen two cuts in the middle of the forehead.
The bus for the PCVs leaving for Sikasso Region, both City of Sikasso and Bouguni/Bougoula, was leaving promptly at 6:45am from Tubaniso. So at 7:15 when we finally left, the anxiety levels of everyone on the bus was high. Nervous, anxious, scared and plain just ready to move onto the next phase of this adventure.
Our bus was supposed to leave at 8am. Whaala, when we finally left at 8:45...what the hell...in California we would call this Mexican time. No one is ever on time, nothing ever leaves or starts on time. I guess I better get used to it. When you say our meeting starts at 9am some will come at 9:30 some 10 some even later...and they’ll be expecting said meeting.
The ride wasn’t too bad. Besides the fact that the bus driver beeps the horn of the bus constantly. It’s worse than the taxis in NY. Mostly here though they are letting those in front of them know to get out of the way or that they are planning on passing. The main “highway” is one lane in each direction. There is no shoulder and the bush taxis and motor scooters are pretty slow. So the bus without looking or slowing down just beeps and passes. We made several stops along the way. I’m not sure if they are pre-determined stops or when someone yells they just pull over. When you get to the big stops (Bougouni, my banking town) as soon as the bus pulls up street vendors bombard the bus trying to sell soda, water (both of which I can never buy...they reuse bottles and put god knows what in it, well water, homemade juice, etc), food (which the fried fish is FABULOUS), odds and ends, fans...and chicklits. Maybe I AM in Mexico. The whole ride from Bamako to Bougoula (thankfully the bus stops right in my town...I thought I’d have to get a bush taxi for the last 32K) took about 2 ½ hours. Not too bad...I can make Bamako a day trip anytime without hassle.
I was the first stop for the PCVs going to site along the way. There are 6 other PCVs on the bus...Not sure what happened to the other 6...they left before us. I’m assuming they took the same route and maybe actually made the 8am bus. When my homologue yelled to the bus driver to stop at Bougoula the other PCVs started saying their goodbyes, looked at me like I was going to the electric chair and wished me luck before the bus even stopped. As we pulled up one of the girls yelled, “OMG they have a whole group outside and they are playing drums”. With that the bus stopped, someone from outside the bus grabbed my hand and I was swept out of the bus without any of my belongings that I knew of before the wheels even stopped. I turned around and caught a glimpse of my homologue with my backpack and the underneath of the bus opening up for him to grab the rest of my stuff. Good thing he’s with me.
I was rushed over to a spot underneath a tree where there was about 30 women and a boatload of kids. Each of which wanted to shake my hand and greet me. They were playing little drums and gourds with the nets and beads around the outside. Some of the women were singing and everyone was clapping. They smiled and stared. The kids were in awe. Some of these people I’m sure have never seen a white person up close before. For a minute my heart was full. It wasn’t quite like anything I’ve ever experienced before. After about 15 minutes they announced they were taking me to meet the dugutigi (village chief). So we walked and walked a little more. I’m sure it wasn’t that far but when there are 30 people walked in front of, behind and to each side of you it felt like a long time. We reached his house and everyone squeezed under his gua (hanger). The old man that was swinging in the hammock I’m assuming is the man of the hour. He shook my hand greeted, talked about me with the other folks and then sent us on our way. We went out the “back” way. And just out the back caddicorner to him and far enough away for some privacy is my house. I little rectangular brick structure with a tin roof, door and couple of windows. The first room is about 12 X 10. Let’s call it the living room/kitchen. There is a wall in between and my bedroom on the other side of the opening. That room is about 12 X 14. Square, cement...what else could a girl ask for. Of course the main things I notice is there is a 1 ½ inch gap under the screen door. Lizards and/or small frogs could certainly get in through there...not to mention the huge spiders. Also, there is light coming through where the middle pitch of the roof is. Does this mean that lizards and or frogs, rats or bats could get in through there. Unacceptable. I can’t have things living with me. On Tuesday someone from PC will be making a home visit to make sure I have everything I need. I will ask them about these things then. They won’t be able to do anything about the gap in the door. I think what I’ll do is use material or a towel, roll it up and lay it in front of the opening on the inside when I’m inside and lay it along the outside between the screen door and the outside metal door when I leave. That should take care of that. As far as the gap in the room. I don’t think lizards can get up on this room. It is metal, it has a decent pitch and there is an overhand over the edge of the house. I’m pretty sure lizards won’t be able to climb on the metal to get around that overhand. But I’ll be certain to find out for sure on Tuesday. In the meantime, I’m just praying nothing finds its way in.
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| My living room. I don't know if you can see how it slopes down to the door. I'm assuming this is for, just in case, rain drainage. |
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| The view from the living room towards the bedroom. |
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| And the bedroom. Sleeping in my bug tent until I get my bed and a mosquito net set up when I return. |
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| My house from the outside. The tree stumps sticking up will later be my overhang for sun protection. |
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| Nice new nyegen. |
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| Nice and clean. The little stump the old man put in there so I have somewhere to sit when I bucket bathe. The small luxuries. |
After checking out my house I went with the Matrone over to her home. She has a sweet little set up right next to the CSCOM. They call it Maternity but they see sick people there, give vaccines, etc. So I’m calling it CSCOM. They have electricity. And running water...INSIDE. Hallelujah. I should check to see if they have a shower. I won’t have internet but at least I have a way to keep everything charged in between visits to my banking town. They do have broadband available here that I’m sure since I’m in between two big cities would work just fine. But on a volunteers salary can I really afford the luxury of $60-70 per month? I couldn’t afford that in the states. There is several rooms in the CSCOM...one building. The first room looks like a room where they just visit/have consultations. Then there is a room for sick people. Across the hall is the maternity ward. Three beds and three “cribs” ish. Then there is the delivery room. One gurney style bed, An actual sink with running water and a table of sorts. Much bigger than the “delivery room” at the CSCOM in my homestay site but with no more equipment...but the running water!! That was it. They deliver babies, give vaccinations, do family planning and take care of the sick and hurt.
The Matrone is very nice and I think we will be friends. That would be easier to determine if I could communicate better. In time, my friends, in time. At first I thought she was single with one daughter about 7...the most beautiful little girl...but later I will find out that she is muso fila (wife number 2), she is 47 and she had 5 children but 2 died. Her 2 other daughters are back and forth to Bamako for school and the youngest one is the only one still with her all the time. Her husband stays mostly in Bamako and comes “home” to her on Sundays. I like her a lot and will look forward to meeting her husband.
After having something to eat my homologue came back to get me and take me home. He came out of the Matrone’s house with a mattress (queen size if I’m not mistaken) to take to my house for me. I hope it’s not hers and she is sleeping on the floor for the week while I’m here. Maybe they bought it for me. I don’t have the language skills to ask. But I’ll figure it out by the time I leave. So my homologue, the matrone and myself walked back to my house. I live real close, which means I also live real close to the CSCOM...and the main road. You can see cars go by from her house, but from mine I don’t think you can hear or see anything. But when it’s time to travel...the road is right here and the bus stops right here. I’m glad for these 2 little things.
After getting the mattress in the house we talked about my mosquito net. I was trying to explain that I have a mosquito tent that can sit right on top of the mattress. U ma famu (they don’t understand). So I take it out and show them. Now they stay to help set it up...along with 4 other guests that just help themselves to come in and sit. After I set it up I tried to ask if they sleep outside when it is really hot. They thought I wanted them to leave so I can sleep. I finally convinced them that is not what I wanted but I don’t know how to say what I want so forget it. Nothing like insulting your hosts on the first day.
My house doesn’t have the gua (hanger, shade overhang) set up yet. In the pictures you’ll see what looks like tree stumps sticking out of the ground. They are tree stumps sticking up out of the ground. They are the foundation for and will hold up my gua. The material to make the thatched roof part is outside but the work has not been done yet. If it’s not done by Tuesday I will have the PC staff that comes on Tuesday figure that out for me. Also, from what I understood, each PCVs home should have a fence around the compound. I do not have a fence. And although I don’t want to be unsociable people (older folks and kids alike) will be coming up to and hanging out in front of my door and walking by and looking in. It would be nice to have some kind of separation from that. Not to mention I want to start a garden and plant a couple of moringa trees. If I don’t have a fence the animals will come and eat up all my stuff. One more thing to talk to the PC staff about on Tuesday. I better make a list.
I am hot. Even though it is not far from where I’ve been living and camp, the humidity does run a little higher here. The sweat doesn’t stop. It’s 94 in my house. I wonder if I can get a couple of z’s. I hear something on the roof. Maybe it’s just the creaking noise the tin makes in the heat. I hope.
8pm – I probably dozed off for a minute earlier. But the matrone and my homologue came back to get me for a meeting at the dugutigi’s house. There were 7 men (including the dugutigi), my homologue, the matrone and myself. My homologue started the discussion going over some of the things he learned at Corps de la Paix while he was there. Then they went around the room. It’s interesting because it appears that the youngest man would go first speaking pretty much directly to the next oldest. Then that person goes next speaking to the next oldest and so on...until it’s time for the dugutigi to speak. After each person is done speaking they go through about 5 blessings. One think I’ve learned to hear is A La. Whenever you hear mention of A La you just answer with “amiina”. You’re golden. Bambara is a very interesting language. It’s very simple, they use a lot of the same words over and over. They don’t really have much to talk about. Or maybe it’s that they can’t. There vocabulary is so limited it limits their conversation. They do mix a lot of french in though...because their vocabulary is so limited. When there isn’t a word for something they just throw french in. I find myself doing the same thing. The language I am learning is a mix of two languages. Bambara and French. I’m sure it will be a very useful skill by the time I am done. They also make a lot of noise when someone is talking to them. In our culture we would consider this rude. Here it is rude not to recognize that someone is speaking to you and confirm that you hear them by saying “awo” (yes) or “Nse” (if you’re a woman and has no real meaning) or Nba (if you’re a man and again has no real meaning)...or they make this clicking noise in the back of their throat. I thought their throats had a tickle from the dust and the wind but it is just an acknowledgement noise that they are listening and hearing you. I actually caught myself doing it once when someone was talking to me. That’ll be a nice thing to bring home with me. People will be talking to me and I’ll be walking around clicking my throat. Like the Bambara/French language...very useful in my future I’m sure.
I just peed and bathed in my new nyegen. How exciting. It was just getting dark, I was hot, the water was cool. It was pretty nice. Now I’m sitting in my room in my bug tent on top of the mattress. There’s not much else I can do. You can’t really stay outside. There is no light and if I use my book light the bugs come. So I am in my tent...hoping beyond hope that it cools off a little tonight.
Earlier the matrone asked me what I was doing for food. I told her I don’t know. I’m curious what makes her think I would have a way to eat. I’ve never been here before. I didn’t come with food. The market is only available on Thursday so I have no way to get food. And I have no cooking utensils, ie, stove, pots, plates, etc. Just when I was set on the fact that I would not be eating tonight, my homologue just came by with a light for me and to tell me the matrone would be here later with food for me. I’m pretty sure just rice, but I’m a little hungry. Rice is better than nothin.
The noise on the roof was birds. Big fat pigeons. Apparently some are more graceful than others. There was one that hit the roof like a ton of bricks. Scared the crap out of me. If the birds make that much noise imagine what the rain will sound like.
When I came inside from sitting out in front there was some kind of ugly bug I’ve never seen before sitting by the front door. Thankfully when I shooed it with my fan it went peacefully. One more thing to have to worry about. I really need to get something to put in front of that gap in the door...and always use it. I was only out there for a few minutes.
I actually had potatoes and some kind of meat. Definitely not cow. My guess is goat. I couldn’t finish it so with no real good alternative I went to throw the leftovers down the nyegen. On my way over there I ran into a frog and almost had a heart attack when I saw some kind of small animal in the nyegen. Until I realized it was a tiny baby goat my initial reaction was to ditch and run. I don’t know how I’m going to survive. If I don’t last the 2 years it will be because of frogs and bugs and lizards. I was reading my home site information packet before and it was check YES for problems with bats, rats and snakes. I’m hoping that was an error. One more question to ask on Tuesday.
Although I had some trouble with my homestay family at least they were in the same compound as me. Now, although the dugutigi and his huge family aren’t too far I’m really a bit alone out here. This is the first time I’ve felt so alone and a bit scared if I must admit since I’ve come to Africa. It’s only 9pm. It’s dark, I’m alone and have nothing to do and no one to talk to. I’m going to watch an episode of Big Bang Theory someone downloaded onto my external hard drive and hope at some point I can fall asleep.
*I’ve notice a lot of women and young girls (as young as 5, 6, 7ish) with two slashes on each side of their face just about an inch off the outside corner of their eyes. I’m assuming it’s some type of scarification. I’m assuming having them there in that particular spot is relevant to something since every girl/woman I’ve seen with them so far has them in the same place. The matrone (my newest friend) in my village doesn’t have them but her 6 year old daughter does. I believe it’s an ethnic thing. There are some of the other (other than Bambara) ethnicities that use such scarring. I’ve seen the two lines on each side of the eyes and I’ve also seen two cuts in the middle of the forehead.
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Bashi jiri ni
The Miracle Tree
We have learned so much about this wonderful "miracle" tree. So this is an educational blog entry. These trees are so full of nutrients and you can eat the leaves raw in salads, pounded into powder and used as tea, in sauces or in just about anything. It doesn't change the taste of the dish too much. Raw it tastes like grass...spicey grass. Yes, I've tasted grass and yes, I've tasted the leaves of the bashi niri ji. So easy to use as well and the answer to malnutrition all over the world. The different parts of the tree can be used within 6 months of the seed planting. The first thing I'm going to do when I get to my new site in April is get seeds and start about 20 to 30 plantings. Within several months they should be ready to plant in the ground. I'm hoping by then I will have made friends, gained trust and convinced some of the families in my village to take and plant a tree for their personal use. Maybe I can also use it as my first income generating project. If the folks that take a tree pick and pound and can sell the leaves and powder at the market as a nutrition supplement...that would be awesome. The hardest part would be educating the people in the village on nutrition, it's importance and the ease with which they could put healthy supplements into their bodies...and their babies bodies. Then convincing them on spending money to do that.
Every single part of this tree can be cultivated and used as a food supplement. The leaves, the bark, the wood and the roots. I wonder if it can grow in the states. Not that we have many malnurished children but we do live in a world were we are always looking for a new, easy, healthy food supplement. Maybe my new income generating project could be exports!!
Imagine a tree in your backyard that will meet all your nutritional needs, take care of you medicinally, and purify your water for you. This tree actually exists. For centuries, the natives of northern India and many parts of Africa have known of the many benefits of Moringa oleifera. Its uses are as unique as the names it is known by, such as clarifier tree, horseradish tree and drumstick tree (referring to the large drumstick shaped pods) and in East Africa it is called "mother's best friend”. Virtually every part of the tree can be used. Native only to the foothills of the Himalayas, it is now widely cultivated in Africa, Central and South America, Sri Lanka, India, Malaysia and the Philippines. This tree, though little known in the Western world, is nutritional dynamite. There are literally hundreds of uses for this tree.
The immature pods are the most valued and widely used of all the tree parts. The pods are extremely nutritious, containing all the essential amino acids along with many vitamins and other nutrients. The immature pod can be eaten raw or prepared like green peas or green beans, while the mature pods are usually fried and possess a peanut-like flavor. The pods also yield 38 - 40% of non-drying, edible oil known as Ben Oil. This oil is clear, sweet and odorless, and never becomes rancid. Overall, its nutritional value most closely resembles olive oil. The thickened root is used as a substitute for horseradish although this is now discouraged as it contains alkaloids, especially moriginine, and a bacteriocide, spirochin, both of which can prove fatal following ingestion. The leaves are eaten as greens, in salads, in vegetable curries, as pickles and for seasoning. They can be pounded up and used for scrubbing utensils and for cleaning walls. Leaves and young branches are relished by livestock. The Bark can be used for tanning and also yields a coarse fiber. The flowers, which must be cooked, are eaten either mixed with other foods or fried in batter and have been shown to be rich in potassium and calcium.
In developing tropical countries, Moringa trees have been used to combat malnutrition, especially among infants and nursing mothers. Three non-governmental organizations in particular - Trees for Life, Church World Service and Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization - advocate Moringa as “natural nutrition for the tropics.” Leaves can be eaten fresh, cooked, or stored as dried powder for many months without refrigeration, and without loss of nutritional value. Moringa is especially promising as a food source in the tropics because the tree is in full leaf at the end of the dry season when other foods are typically scarce. Analyses of the leaf composition have revealed them to have significant quantities of vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron and protein. According to Optima of Africa, Ltd., a group that has been working with the tree in Tanzania, "25 grams daily of Moringa Leaf Powder will give a child" the following recommended daily allowances:
Protein 42%, Calcium 125%, Magnesium 61%, Potassium 41%, Iron 71%, Vitamin A 272%, and Vitamin C 22%. These numbers are particularly astounding; considering this nutrition is available when other food sources may be scarce.
Scientific research confirms that these humble leaves are a powerhouse of nutritional value. Gram for gram, Moringa leaves contain: SEVEN times the vitamin C in oranges, FOUR times the Calcium in milk, FOUR times the vitamin A in carrots, TWO times the protein in milk and THREE times the Potassium in bananas.
The Moringa tree has great use medicinally both as preventative and treatment. Much of the evidence is anecdotal as there has been little actual scientific research done to support these claims. India's ancient tradition of ayurveda says the leaves of the Moringa tree prevent 300 diseases. One area in which there has been significant scientific research is the reported antibiotic activity of this tree.
This is clearly the area in which the preponderance of evidence - both classical scientific and anecdotal evidence - is overwhelming. The scientific evidence has now been available for over 50 years, although much of it is completely unknown to western scientists. In the late 1940’s and early 1950’s a team from India identified a compound they called pterygospermin. This group was also able to demonstrate its mode of antimicrobial action in the mid 1950’s. Field reports and ecological studies form part of a rich traditional medicine history claiming efficacy of leaf, seed, root, bark, and flowers against a variety of dermal and internal infections. In 1964 other active compounds were isolated and tested in-vitro, and these studies, along with observational studies provide a very plausible mechanism of action for the centuries of claims of efficacy. Unfortunately, because many of the reports of antibiotic efficacy in humans are not supported by placebo controlled, randomized clinical trials, Western medical prejudice leaves the Western world ignorant of Moringa’s antibiotic properties.
Another area of folklore which research supports is in cancer treatment. Moringa species have long been recognized by folk medicine practitioners as having value in the treatment of tumors. Studies examined certain compounds for their cancer preventive potential. Recently two of these compounds were shown to be potent inhibitors of activation of lymphoblastoid (Burkitt’s lymphoma) cells. One of these compounds also inhibited tumors in mice bred to be prone to tumors. In another study, Bharali and colleagues examined skin tumor prevention following ingestion of drumstick (Moringa seedpod) extracts. In this mouse model, which included appropriate positive and negative controls, a dramatic reduction in skin tumors was demonstrated. More rigorous study is required in order to achieve a level of proof required for full medical endorsement of Moringa as, in this case, a cancer preventative plant.
After the oil is extracted from the pods, the seed-cake remaining contains the active components for removing turbidity (solid particles) from water. Because bacteria adhere to the solids, this seed-cake also effectively removes bacteria. At the Thyolo Water Treatment Works in Malawi, Africa, two researchers from the University of Leicester, England, have worked on substituting moringa seeds for alum to remove solids in water for drinking. Not only were the tests successful in removing as much solid material as alum, but the seeds used were "purchased from enthusiastic villagers in Nsanje Region in Malawi" (Folkard and Sutherland, 1996. Not only is Moringa oleifera as effective as aluminum sulphate (alum) in removing suspended solids from turbid water, it has a major advantage. Because it can be produced locally, "using Moringa rather than alum would save foreign exchange and generate farm and employment income." The potential for Moringa to create a new market for a community is there, and studies and projects are taking place examining this potential. Use of this natural substance would also remove a source of aluminum contamination.
This tree is truly a “miracle” tree offering hope; nutritionally, medicinally and economically to devastatingly poor 3rd world countries. It has just recently begun being used as a supplement in a juice form and in powdered leaf tablets.
We have learned so much about this wonderful "miracle" tree. So this is an educational blog entry. These trees are so full of nutrients and you can eat the leaves raw in salads, pounded into powder and used as tea, in sauces or in just about anything. It doesn't change the taste of the dish too much. Raw it tastes like grass...spicey grass. Yes, I've tasted grass and yes, I've tasted the leaves of the bashi niri ji. So easy to use as well and the answer to malnutrition all over the world. The different parts of the tree can be used within 6 months of the seed planting. The first thing I'm going to do when I get to my new site in April is get seeds and start about 20 to 30 plantings. Within several months they should be ready to plant in the ground. I'm hoping by then I will have made friends, gained trust and convinced some of the families in my village to take and plant a tree for their personal use. Maybe I can also use it as my first income generating project. If the folks that take a tree pick and pound and can sell the leaves and powder at the market as a nutrition supplement...that would be awesome. The hardest part would be educating the people in the village on nutrition, it's importance and the ease with which they could put healthy supplements into their bodies...and their babies bodies. Then convincing them on spending money to do that.
Every single part of this tree can be cultivated and used as a food supplement. The leaves, the bark, the wood and the roots. I wonder if it can grow in the states. Not that we have many malnurished children but we do live in a world were we are always looking for a new, easy, healthy food supplement. Maybe my new income generating project could be exports!!
Imagine a tree in your backyard that will meet all your nutritional needs, take care of you medicinally, and purify your water for you. This tree actually exists. For centuries, the natives of northern India and many parts of Africa have known of the many benefits of Moringa oleifera. Its uses are as unique as the names it is known by, such as clarifier tree, horseradish tree and drumstick tree (referring to the large drumstick shaped pods) and in East Africa it is called "mother's best friend”. Virtually every part of the tree can be used. Native only to the foothills of the Himalayas, it is now widely cultivated in Africa, Central and South America, Sri Lanka, India, Malaysia and the Philippines. This tree, though little known in the Western world, is nutritional dynamite. There are literally hundreds of uses for this tree.
The immature pods are the most valued and widely used of all the tree parts. The pods are extremely nutritious, containing all the essential amino acids along with many vitamins and other nutrients. The immature pod can be eaten raw or prepared like green peas or green beans, while the mature pods are usually fried and possess a peanut-like flavor. The pods also yield 38 - 40% of non-drying, edible oil known as Ben Oil. This oil is clear, sweet and odorless, and never becomes rancid. Overall, its nutritional value most closely resembles olive oil. The thickened root is used as a substitute for horseradish although this is now discouraged as it contains alkaloids, especially moriginine, and a bacteriocide, spirochin, both of which can prove fatal following ingestion. The leaves are eaten as greens, in salads, in vegetable curries, as pickles and for seasoning. They can be pounded up and used for scrubbing utensils and for cleaning walls. Leaves and young branches are relished by livestock. The Bark can be used for tanning and also yields a coarse fiber. The flowers, which must be cooked, are eaten either mixed with other foods or fried in batter and have been shown to be rich in potassium and calcium.
In developing tropical countries, Moringa trees have been used to combat malnutrition, especially among infants and nursing mothers. Three non-governmental organizations in particular - Trees for Life, Church World Service and Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization - advocate Moringa as “natural nutrition for the tropics.” Leaves can be eaten fresh, cooked, or stored as dried powder for many months without refrigeration, and without loss of nutritional value. Moringa is especially promising as a food source in the tropics because the tree is in full leaf at the end of the dry season when other foods are typically scarce. Analyses of the leaf composition have revealed them to have significant quantities of vitamins A, B and C, calcium, iron and protein. According to Optima of Africa, Ltd., a group that has been working with the tree in Tanzania, "25 grams daily of Moringa Leaf Powder will give a child" the following recommended daily allowances:
Protein 42%, Calcium 125%, Magnesium 61%, Potassium 41%, Iron 71%, Vitamin A 272%, and Vitamin C 22%. These numbers are particularly astounding; considering this nutrition is available when other food sources may be scarce.
Scientific research confirms that these humble leaves are a powerhouse of nutritional value. Gram for gram, Moringa leaves contain: SEVEN times the vitamin C in oranges, FOUR times the Calcium in milk, FOUR times the vitamin A in carrots, TWO times the protein in milk and THREE times the Potassium in bananas.
The Moringa tree has great use medicinally both as preventative and treatment. Much of the evidence is anecdotal as there has been little actual scientific research done to support these claims. India's ancient tradition of ayurveda says the leaves of the Moringa tree prevent 300 diseases. One area in which there has been significant scientific research is the reported antibiotic activity of this tree.
This is clearly the area in which the preponderance of evidence - both classical scientific and anecdotal evidence - is overwhelming. The scientific evidence has now been available for over 50 years, although much of it is completely unknown to western scientists. In the late 1940’s and early 1950’s a team from India identified a compound they called pterygospermin. This group was also able to demonstrate its mode of antimicrobial action in the mid 1950’s. Field reports and ecological studies form part of a rich traditional medicine history claiming efficacy of leaf, seed, root, bark, and flowers against a variety of dermal and internal infections. In 1964 other active compounds were isolated and tested in-vitro, and these studies, along with observational studies provide a very plausible mechanism of action for the centuries of claims of efficacy. Unfortunately, because many of the reports of antibiotic efficacy in humans are not supported by placebo controlled, randomized clinical trials, Western medical prejudice leaves the Western world ignorant of Moringa’s antibiotic properties.
Another area of folklore which research supports is in cancer treatment. Moringa species have long been recognized by folk medicine practitioners as having value in the treatment of tumors. Studies examined certain compounds for their cancer preventive potential. Recently two of these compounds were shown to be potent inhibitors of activation of lymphoblastoid (Burkitt’s lymphoma) cells. One of these compounds also inhibited tumors in mice bred to be prone to tumors. In another study, Bharali and colleagues examined skin tumor prevention following ingestion of drumstick (Moringa seedpod) extracts. In this mouse model, which included appropriate positive and negative controls, a dramatic reduction in skin tumors was demonstrated. More rigorous study is required in order to achieve a level of proof required for full medical endorsement of Moringa as, in this case, a cancer preventative plant.
After the oil is extracted from the pods, the seed-cake remaining contains the active components for removing turbidity (solid particles) from water. Because bacteria adhere to the solids, this seed-cake also effectively removes bacteria. At the Thyolo Water Treatment Works in Malawi, Africa, two researchers from the University of Leicester, England, have worked on substituting moringa seeds for alum to remove solids in water for drinking. Not only were the tests successful in removing as much solid material as alum, but the seeds used were "purchased from enthusiastic villagers in Nsanje Region in Malawi" (Folkard and Sutherland, 1996. Not only is Moringa oleifera as effective as aluminum sulphate (alum) in removing suspended solids from turbid water, it has a major advantage. Because it can be produced locally, "using Moringa rather than alum would save foreign exchange and generate farm and employment income." The potential for Moringa to create a new market for a community is there, and studies and projects are taking place examining this potential. Use of this natural substance would also remove a source of aluminum contamination.
This tree is truly a “miracle” tree offering hope; nutritionally, medicinally and economically to devastatingly poor 3rd world countries. It has just recently begun being used as a supplement in a juice form and in powdered leaf tablets.
Sector Fair
March 11, 2011
We had a Sector Fair today. There was a table set up for each of the 5 different sectors that PC works in. Education, Health, Water & Sanitation, Small Enterprise Development and Environment. Each table had Staff explaining the different projects being worked on and the success of the volunteers working on them. It was explained in Bambara for the homologues and in English for the rest of us. It is interesting to see what people are working on and that PC really does work. One of the biggest goals of PC is to bring to the communities information and the means by which to improve the quality of their lives and to be able to maintain and sustain any projects and that quality after we are gone. It’s nice to know it works.
Health had a table explaining the importance of nutrition and health education. Including family planning, the 3 food groups and eating properly and sanitation. There is a kit we can use when we go into the schools to teach family planning and the prevention of AIDS including condoms and a wood penis to show those interested how to use said condoms. I guess a wood penis is funny no matter what language you’re listening to. Everyone got a kick out of that.
Education talked about the schools in general. Statistics show that only 34% of Malian adults are literate. That’s some pretty low statistics. I’m sure most of those are men as statistics show that most girls do not continue school after 6th grade (if that) because of the chores they will be required to do at home.
Water and Sanitation showed the different ways they are building wells. They also have this hand crank system they are working on to make pulling water from the wells easier. It seems like such a simple less dangerous solution to pulling water with a bag and rope standing over a huge hole with a 30 foot drop. I wonder why you don’t see more of these around.
Small Enterprise Development is basically income generating projects. One of the PCVs in SED is going to be working with a Mango company in trying to generate income from mangos all year round and not only in Mango season. It seems odd to me that they don’t do more work in this area as far as canning or jarring. They would have food security all year round if they could work up this type of business here. As of right now they export their fruits out of the country. It is there that they are jarred or canned and it is that country that benefits from the income that is generated. Meanwhile this country suffers economically and doesn’t eat property for most of the year. I’m sure there is a huge expense in starting up a canning or jarring company but I would think in a short period of time it would pay for itself.
Environment was the most interesting to me. They talked about gardening, the shea tree and the bashi niri ji (moringa tree). They were growing gardens out of old rice bags. Herbs, onions, lettuce. If you make small gardens like these, or start your gardens in these bags, it is easy to keep yourself in vegetables all year round. Shea trees are easy to grow and can be started in bags until they reach a size to be transplanted directly in the ground. The same is true for the Moringa tree.
SED and environment work diligently and closely with the other sectors to try and improve and insure food security. Which has 3 major components. Food accessibility, food availability and food utilization. Accessibility is the means by which every household should have food accessible to them at an affordable price all year round. Availability is just that. That food is available to each household at an affordable price...all year round. And utilization is that these household are using their available resources to feed their families all year round. Some of these components are issues brought on by Malians themselves. They grow these wonderful fruits and vegetables and then sell all of them at the market not even keeping enough to feed their own family. Then they buy rice and beans and potatoes because they are cheaper. No real nutritional value to speak of.
We had a Sector Fair today. There was a table set up for each of the 5 different sectors that PC works in. Education, Health, Water & Sanitation, Small Enterprise Development and Environment. Each table had Staff explaining the different projects being worked on and the success of the volunteers working on them. It was explained in Bambara for the homologues and in English for the rest of us. It is interesting to see what people are working on and that PC really does work. One of the biggest goals of PC is to bring to the communities information and the means by which to improve the quality of their lives and to be able to maintain and sustain any projects and that quality after we are gone. It’s nice to know it works.
Health had a table explaining the importance of nutrition and health education. Including family planning, the 3 food groups and eating properly and sanitation. There is a kit we can use when we go into the schools to teach family planning and the prevention of AIDS including condoms and a wood penis to show those interested how to use said condoms. I guess a wood penis is funny no matter what language you’re listening to. Everyone got a kick out of that.
Education talked about the schools in general. Statistics show that only 34% of Malian adults are literate. That’s some pretty low statistics. I’m sure most of those are men as statistics show that most girls do not continue school after 6th grade (if that) because of the chores they will be required to do at home.
Water and Sanitation showed the different ways they are building wells. They also have this hand crank system they are working on to make pulling water from the wells easier. It seems like such a simple less dangerous solution to pulling water with a bag and rope standing over a huge hole with a 30 foot drop. I wonder why you don’t see more of these around.
Small Enterprise Development is basically income generating projects. One of the PCVs in SED is going to be working with a Mango company in trying to generate income from mangos all year round and not only in Mango season. It seems odd to me that they don’t do more work in this area as far as canning or jarring. They would have food security all year round if they could work up this type of business here. As of right now they export their fruits out of the country. It is there that they are jarred or canned and it is that country that benefits from the income that is generated. Meanwhile this country suffers economically and doesn’t eat property for most of the year. I’m sure there is a huge expense in starting up a canning or jarring company but I would think in a short period of time it would pay for itself.
Environment was the most interesting to me. They talked about gardening, the shea tree and the bashi niri ji (moringa tree). They were growing gardens out of old rice bags. Herbs, onions, lettuce. If you make small gardens like these, or start your gardens in these bags, it is easy to keep yourself in vegetables all year round. Shea trees are easy to grow and can be started in bags until they reach a size to be transplanted directly in the ground. The same is true for the Moringa tree.
SED and environment work diligently and closely with the other sectors to try and improve and insure food security. Which has 3 major components. Food accessibility, food availability and food utilization. Accessibility is the means by which every household should have food accessible to them at an affordable price all year round. Availability is just that. That food is available to each household at an affordable price...all year round. And utilization is that these household are using their available resources to feed their families all year round. Some of these components are issues brought on by Malians themselves. They grow these wonderful fruits and vegetables and then sell all of them at the market not even keeping enough to feed their own family. Then they buy rice and beans and potatoes because they are cheaper. No real nutritional value to speak of.
Friday, March 11, 2011
March 10, 2011
The internet has been down for a day and a half. I know I shouldn't get upset but I do. When I come into Tubaniso it is the only time I can email, talk or skype with my family, update on Facebook and be in touch with all of you. So when I get here and it goes down and I don't get to do these things I get very cranky. So while I was waiting I wrote this e-mail to my family. But it is a good summary of my new site announcement and what I'll be doing the next couple of days. Instead of rewriting I figure I'll just post it to everyone.
Sikasso and my homologue:
So I’m back at camp. I’m writing this email in a word document because the internet has been a real pain in the ass which is why no one has heard from me. It’s been totally down since yesterday morning. I figure I’ll write you all at one time and as soon as it comes back up again I’ll send this email ASAP before anything happens and I can’t contact you.
I’ve been surviving the past 2 weeks knowing that when I get to camp I will have electricity, running water (kind of) and internet so I can call and skype…especially the boys. I’m so sorry I haven’t really gotten to talk to you and have a decent conversation yet. Please all know how much I love you and miss you all.
So I found out Wednesday that I will be moving the 2nd week of April to Sikasso Region of Mali. The exact village is called Bougoula. It is very small…1,000 people. No electricty. No running water and although I should be able to find people in town that sell some vegetables and fruits here and there during the week my actual market town (Zantiebougou) is 7k away and is only open on Thursdays. I’m sure the town has a butigi (little store) for essentials (rice, beans, millet…phone cards…a luke cook soda every once in a while, cookies, soap) but nothing fresh. The biggest town (Bougouni), the closest other white american english speaking person, the big market, my banking town and the closest internet connection and electricity is 32K from me. Which is about 25 miles or so. Taking a bush taxi or hitchhiking it should take about an hour. Not too bad. I just found out that they will be building a new Peace Corps transit house there too. So that will make it easy for me to keep in contact…for free. I will be able to go and spend the day and/or night with all the luxuries of life. Which I’ve dwindled down to electricity, water and internet.
Sikasso is the wetest part of Mali. Which has it’s good points and bad. It is lush and green and has access to lots of fruits and vegetables (when you can get to market). Mangos the size of your head and papayas the size of your leg. I will easily be able to grow a garden and I will get to my site before the rainy season starts so I will have plenty of time to prep. Although I will have to do some research about how to keep the garden from flooding. The rain will keep the dust down and the air clean. The bad points…FROGS…and you all know how much I hate frogs. One was chasing me back to my room after my shower the other day. Little bastard.
RAIN…so I just found out it rains approximately 60 inches per year in Sikasso…and that’s during rainy season which is May through October. I can’t even imagine.
The village I’m going to has never had a PC Volunteer before. My house is newly built just for me. It is two rooms. I don’t know if that means it is 2 separate huts or one square building split into two rooms. I will also have my own NEW nyegen (bathroom). Outside, but mine alone. I will have a host family that will just be there for me if needed over the next two years. The host dad is the village dugutigi (chief). I’m assuming that means that if there is ever anything I need he will make sure I’m taken care of. I’m hoping this relationship doesn’t mean that marriage could be involved. I don’t know how many wives he has at this time but I don’t want to be number 2 or 5….or 1 for that matter.
I will also have a homologue for the next two years. This person is my counterpart, sidekick, new BFF for the next two years. This person will help me communicate, help me with my Bambara, befriend me to himself and his family. He will take me to weddings, baptisms, funerals/burials. He will be a liason for me with the local clinic (CSCOM) and the village matrone (midwife). I have been anxious about meeting this person. How you get along with him could really make or break how your time will be spent in Mali. What if he’s an asshole like my host brother. PC could just send me home now. But what if this person turns out to be wonderful and awesome and my new BFF that when the time comes for me to come home I will not want to leave them. I can only hope. My experience hasn’t been that great so far. Something good has to happen….right?
So I met my homologue last night. The homologues are coming from as close as 2 hours away to as far as 15 hours away to spend the next 3 days at camp with us. Getting to know us and learning about the Peace Corps and what their role is in our life for the next two years. I finally found my homologue last night. A lot of the homologues were going out to find their PCV person but I didn’t come across mine. I was hooking other people up with theirs but mine was nowhere to be found. I finally decided to go out and try to find him. All they know is the name of their village and that is all I know as well. So I went outside and just said, “Bougoula…anyone…Bougoula.” And this man jumped up and say AWO, AWO (yes, yes). I asked him if his name was Ousmane Kane and he said AWO and then he hugged me. I was so excited. He held my hand and we went through 5 minutes of Malian greetings and we were friends. We walked away from the group and went to the hangar area where everyone was sitting around making and drinking tea. It was wonderful. All the anxiety I’ve had was finally over. I can’t figure out how old he is. I think he looks older than he is. He is married (only one wife) and has 4 children between 3 and 13. He speaks Bambara and French. So we’ll be able to communicate…a little. For the first time since I’ve been here I’m excited.
I will be at camp until Sunday. Sunday morning at 6am Peace Corps will drop me and Ousmane off at the bus station in Bamako and we will make our way back to his (my) village on public transportation. Ousmane said that the bus trip from Bamako to our home is only 2 hours. This makes me happy. Bamako is the center of Mali. It is where the tubob (white people) stores are, the airport…the center of the world. So 2 hours is not that bad. Except you are on a bus (a big charter bus mind you) without air conditioning, chickens, goats, etc and the roads aren’t that great…but it’s only 2 hours. Some of the other volunteers have a 12 hour bus ride “home”. I just spoke to a PCV who has a 12 hour train ride to her site. Bummer. Anyway, I will stay in my new village from Sunday until Friday. Friday we are supposed to leave PC transit house in our region where the current volunteers are supposed to be having a dinner party for the new volunteers. I don’t think I’m going to go. The current transit house is 3 hours in the opposite direction…further from Bamako. Which means I would have a 5 hour bus ride to get back. Me and another of the volunteers that is somewhat close to me are thinking we’ll just come back here and forego the party. I would be nice to meet the other volunteers in Sikasso but I’m not into the whole bus thing. We’ll see how it goes.
So, I know I’ve been a pain in the ass and complaining a lot since I’ve been here. But I want you all to know I am doing much better. I don’t miss you all (and my boys of course) any less than the day I left and that is not getting any easier, but helps that I am finally having the time I was hoping to have while I was here. Sorry this email is so long. It could have just been a blog entry but I wanted to send it to all of you separate and more intimate than a blog entry. I love you all so much and miss you all so much you have no idea…even though we didn’t see each other that frequently anyway just knowing the physical distance between us has made this the hardest thing I’ve ever done. But then again, the Peace Corps mottos is “The hardest job you’ll ever love”.
Love, hugs and kisses,
Sikasso and my homologue:
So I’m back at camp. I’m writing this email in a word document because the internet has been a real pain in the ass which is why no one has heard from me. It’s been totally down since yesterday morning. I figure I’ll write you all at one time and as soon as it comes back up again I’ll send this email ASAP before anything happens and I can’t contact you.
I’ve been surviving the past 2 weeks knowing that when I get to camp I will have electricity, running water (kind of) and internet so I can call and skype…especially the boys. I’m so sorry I haven’t really gotten to talk to you and have a decent conversation yet. Please all know how much I love you and miss you all.
So I found out Wednesday that I will be moving the 2nd week of April to Sikasso Region of Mali. The exact village is called Bougoula. It is very small…1,000 people. No electricty. No running water and although I should be able to find people in town that sell some vegetables and fruits here and there during the week my actual market town (Zantiebougou) is 7k away and is only open on Thursdays. I’m sure the town has a butigi (little store) for essentials (rice, beans, millet…phone cards…a luke cook soda every once in a while, cookies, soap) but nothing fresh. The biggest town (Bougouni), the closest other white american english speaking person, the big market, my banking town and the closest internet connection and electricity is 32K from me. Which is about 25 miles or so. Taking a bush taxi or hitchhiking it should take about an hour. Not too bad. I just found out that they will be building a new Peace Corps transit house there too. So that will make it easy for me to keep in contact…for free. I will be able to go and spend the day and/or night with all the luxuries of life. Which I’ve dwindled down to electricity, water and internet.
Sikasso is the wetest part of Mali. Which has it’s good points and bad. It is lush and green and has access to lots of fruits and vegetables (when you can get to market). Mangos the size of your head and papayas the size of your leg. I will easily be able to grow a garden and I will get to my site before the rainy season starts so I will have plenty of time to prep. Although I will have to do some research about how to keep the garden from flooding. The rain will keep the dust down and the air clean. The bad points…FROGS…and you all know how much I hate frogs. One was chasing me back to my room after my shower the other day. Little bastard.
RAIN…so I just found out it rains approximately 60 inches per year in Sikasso…and that’s during rainy season which is May through October. I can’t even imagine.
The village I’m going to has never had a PC Volunteer before. My house is newly built just for me. It is two rooms. I don’t know if that means it is 2 separate huts or one square building split into two rooms. I will also have my own NEW nyegen (bathroom). Outside, but mine alone. I will have a host family that will just be there for me if needed over the next two years. The host dad is the village dugutigi (chief). I’m assuming that means that if there is ever anything I need he will make sure I’m taken care of. I’m hoping this relationship doesn’t mean that marriage could be involved. I don’t know how many wives he has at this time but I don’t want to be number 2 or 5….or 1 for that matter.
I will also have a homologue for the next two years. This person is my counterpart, sidekick, new BFF for the next two years. This person will help me communicate, help me with my Bambara, befriend me to himself and his family. He will take me to weddings, baptisms, funerals/burials. He will be a liason for me with the local clinic (CSCOM) and the village matrone (midwife). I have been anxious about meeting this person. How you get along with him could really make or break how your time will be spent in Mali. What if he’s an asshole like my host brother. PC could just send me home now. But what if this person turns out to be wonderful and awesome and my new BFF that when the time comes for me to come home I will not want to leave them. I can only hope. My experience hasn’t been that great so far. Something good has to happen….right?
So I met my homologue last night. The homologues are coming from as close as 2 hours away to as far as 15 hours away to spend the next 3 days at camp with us. Getting to know us and learning about the Peace Corps and what their role is in our life for the next two years. I finally found my homologue last night. A lot of the homologues were going out to find their PCV person but I didn’t come across mine. I was hooking other people up with theirs but mine was nowhere to be found. I finally decided to go out and try to find him. All they know is the name of their village and that is all I know as well. So I went outside and just said, “Bougoula…anyone…Bougoula.” And this man jumped up and say AWO, AWO (yes, yes). I asked him if his name was Ousmane Kane and he said AWO and then he hugged me. I was so excited. He held my hand and we went through 5 minutes of Malian greetings and we were friends. We walked away from the group and went to the hangar area where everyone was sitting around making and drinking tea. It was wonderful. All the anxiety I’ve had was finally over. I can’t figure out how old he is. I think he looks older than he is. He is married (only one wife) and has 4 children between 3 and 13. He speaks Bambara and French. So we’ll be able to communicate…a little. For the first time since I’ve been here I’m excited.
 |
| Me and my homologue, Souleymane Kone'. |
I will be at camp until Sunday. Sunday morning at 6am Peace Corps will drop me and Ousmane off at the bus station in Bamako and we will make our way back to his (my) village on public transportation. Ousmane said that the bus trip from Bamako to our home is only 2 hours. This makes me happy. Bamako is the center of Mali. It is where the tubob (white people) stores are, the airport…the center of the world. So 2 hours is not that bad. Except you are on a bus (a big charter bus mind you) without air conditioning, chickens, goats, etc and the roads aren’t that great…but it’s only 2 hours. Some of the other volunteers have a 12 hour bus ride “home”. I just spoke to a PCV who has a 12 hour train ride to her site. Bummer. Anyway, I will stay in my new village from Sunday until Friday. Friday we are supposed to leave PC transit house in our region where the current volunteers are supposed to be having a dinner party for the new volunteers. I don’t think I’m going to go. The current transit house is 3 hours in the opposite direction…further from Bamako. Which means I would have a 5 hour bus ride to get back. Me and another of the volunteers that is somewhat close to me are thinking we’ll just come back here and forego the party. I would be nice to meet the other volunteers in Sikasso but I’m not into the whole bus thing. We’ll see how it goes.
So, I know I’ve been a pain in the ass and complaining a lot since I’ve been here. But I want you all to know I am doing much better. I don’t miss you all (and my boys of course) any less than the day I left and that is not getting any easier, but helps that I am finally having the time I was hoping to have while I was here. Sorry this email is so long. It could have just been a blog entry but I wanted to send it to all of you separate and more intimate than a blog entry. I love you all so much and miss you all so much you have no idea…even though we didn’t see each other that frequently anyway just knowing the physical distance between us has made this the hardest thing I’ve ever done. But then again, the Peace Corps mottos is “The hardest job you’ll ever love”.
Love, hugs and kisses,
March 9 (continued)
So I will be spending the next 2 years in the Sikasso region of Mali, in a little village called Bougoula. 1,000 people, no electricity, internet and I’m assuming no air conditioning. But I will have a 2 room house…or 2 huts…with my own nyegen (walled in area made of cement and mud with a hole in the middle of the floor to take care of business…the bathroom). The family that will watch over me and I assume lives close to me during my time there is the dugutigi (village chief…head honcho) of the village. This may not sound like a lot but it is a very high ranking position even for only 1,000 people. Sikasso is the southern-most region of Mali. The capital city of the same name is the 3rd-largest city and is growing rapidly due to people fleeing the violence in Côte d'Ivoire to the south. Major ethnic groups include the Senoufo, known for masks and reverence for animals, the Samago, known for being Mali's best farmers, and the main ethnic group in Mali, the Bambara people. The local economy is based on farming and the Sikasso, which receives more rain than any other Malian region, is known for its fruits and vegetables.
The city of Sikasso is known for a vibrant outdoor market which features fabrics, numerous vegetables and fruits (especially mangoes, for which Sikasso is particularly renowned.) Sikasso is an ethnic and linguistic melting pot featuring people from outlying villages, immigrants from Cote d'Ivoire and Burkina Faso and refugees.
It is 7k to the nearest market and it's only open 1 day a week. Since there is no refrigeration to keep food and the fact that I have to walk or bike 5 miles to get to the market when it is open I'm planning on losing some weight. I'm down 10 pounds since I got here. Not quite sure since all I eat is carbs. I use potatoes to pick up my rice. And rice to keep up my potatoes. My banking town is 32K away...at least an hour on a local transit bus. Lucky me.
The city of Sikasso is known for a vibrant outdoor market which features fabrics, numerous vegetables and fruits (especially mangoes, for which Sikasso is particularly renowned.) Sikasso is an ethnic and linguistic melting pot featuring people from outlying villages, immigrants from Cote d'Ivoire and Burkina Faso and refugees.
It is 7k to the nearest market and it's only open 1 day a week. Since there is no refrigeration to keep food and the fact that I have to walk or bike 5 miles to get to the market when it is open I'm planning on losing some weight. I'm down 10 pounds since I got here. Not quite sure since all I eat is carbs. I use potatoes to pick up my rice. And rice to keep up my potatoes. My banking town is 32K away...at least an hour on a local transit bus. Lucky me.
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